IF the auto finish is a good fit for a plate, prepping yourself and finding the right auto shop might be a good thing. They are set up for working with that stuff. David Ilvedson Pacifica, CA On Feb 27, 2010, at 10:06 AM, "David Love" <davidlovepianos at comcast.net> wrote: I haven't but I know some who have. You have to be careful as some auto body paints can be very brittle and also shops unfamiliar with pianos can put the finishes on too thick (which I've seen). However, many piano refinishers will also do the plate. I have considered when I'm doing a complete restoration job of sending the piano out after the board is installed (or repaired and such) and the plate height set to the finisher. Have them remove the plate, do the refinishing of both case and plate, remount the plate and then send it back where I can then string it and do the finishing work (lettering and such). It makes more sense for a variety of reasons I just haven't yet found someone that I trust hoisting the plate in and out until recently and I may very well do that on my next project. I'm trying to sub out all finishing work at this point except for varnishing soundboards. The works just too nasty. At present I simply strip the inner rim for the refinisher before installing that plate and stringing so at least the refinisher doesn't have to use any stripper around the plate or soundboard rim glue joint. David Love www.davidlovepianos.com -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of David Ilvedson Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2010 8:11 AM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] finishing a plate Has anyone taken a plate to an auto repair shop for finishing? David Ilvedson, RPT Pacifica, CA 94044 ----- Original message ---------------------------------------- From: "William Truitt" <surfdog at metrocast.net> To: pianotech at ptg.org Received: 2/27/2010 3:02:54 AM Subject: Re: [pianotech] finishing a plate I've used the auto primers, golds, and clears in the past as a system. If you have filled and sanded the plate well in the prep stage, it looks absolutely fantastic. The best color match I was able to find for Steinways was - get this - Dodge Dart gold. It was about $100 worth of materials then. It is nasty, and I am in a mill building now without a spray room, so I have to do things with less toxic materials. Will Truitt From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Michael Spreeman Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 8:43 PM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] finishing a plate I've been able to find thin brass washers at one of the local Ace hardware stores (in the plumbing department) that work well under plate bolts and nosebolts (that are not countersunk). I also found this online: http://www.phoenixspecialty.com/?gclid=CM6S3bSukaACFR6lagodxmI_eA We countersink the pinblock screw holes (and any other countersunk holes in the plate) after the primer coat and again after the finish coats (like Ron mentioned). I've tried just about everything else to eliminate chipping when installing the screws to no avail. We do the same for the hitch pin holes and tuning pin holes that are getting tuning pin bushings. Someone mentioned that one of the supply houses sells pinblock screws that have a bevel ground on the bottom of the head so it doesn't contact the plate finish when driven home. I haven't tried these because the countersinking works. As far as primers, automotive polyester primers work well because they are catalyzed and dry hard, minimizing duplex plate and aliquat indentations. The downside is that the auto products are costly and very nasty to work with. Michael Spreeman www.RavenscroftPianos.com _____ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. Get it <http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469228/direct/01/> now.
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