[pianotech] finishing a plate

[William Truitt]

I've used the auto primers, golds, and clears in the past as a system.  If
you have filled and sanded the plate well in the prep stage, it looks
absolutely fantastic.  The best color match I was able to find for Steinways
was - get this - Dodge Dart gold.  It was about $100 worth of materials
then.  

 

It is nasty, and I am in a mill building now without a spray room, so I have
to do things with less toxic materials.

 

Will Truitt

 

From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Michael Spreeman
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 8:43 PM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] finishing a plate

 

I've been able to find thin brass washers at one of the local Ace hardware
stores (in the plumbing department) that work well under plate bolts and
nosebolts (that are not countersunk).  I also found this online:  
http://www.phoenixspecialty.com/?gclid=CM6S3bSukaACFR6lagodxmI_eA

We countersink the pinblock screw holes (and any other countersunk holes in
the plate) after the primer coat and again after the finish coats (like Ron
mentioned).  I've tried just about everything else to eliminate chipping
when installing the screws to no avail.  We do the same for the hitch pin
holes and tuning pin holes that are getting tuning pin bushings.  

  

Someone mentioned that one of the supply houses sells pinblock screws that
have a bevel ground on the bottom of the head so it doesn't contact the
plate finish when driven home.  I haven't tried these because the
countersinking works. 

  

As far as primers, automotive polyester primers work well because they are
catalyzed and dry hard, minimizing duplex plate and aliquat indentations.
The downside is that the auto products are costly and very nasty to work
with. 

  

  

 Michael Spreeman 
www.RavenscroftPianos.com






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