Tom,
I agree, these and the old-style Acrosonic were probably the best designed
spinet actions (oxymoron?). I'm not sure I agree on the angle change though.
It's probably a matter of diminishing returns anyway when you're talking
spinets, but the horizontal section of the sticker directly behind the rail
is pretty short. If you drop the rail enough to make a difference in lost
motion, it seems like the angle change would be pretty radical because the
top of the vertical section would return to its original position, and wear
on the cloth would exacerbate any effect.
As you say, there are other factors that play a role in an action that's
usually less than optimal in design and condition, but that's my take on it
anyway. If there are any spinet design experts out there, maybe they can set
me straight ;-)
Kerry Kean
_____
From: Tom Driscoll [mailto:tomtuner at verizon.net]
Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 11:21 AM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Wurlitzer spinet ugh
Kerry,
The whippens have dropped because the backrail cloth and sticker cushions
have compressed. Essentially the top of the jack has lost contact with the
butt.We are talking about such a small change in the angle of the horizontal
part of the sticker that in my opinion moving the rail has little
consequence in regards to friction. These actions play very easily from my
experience and I agree that friction is always a concern in any action, but
in my opinion key pins ,tight key bushings and balance rail holes , capstan
condition, and too early damper timing have more impact in this regard.
If the action is too worn then reconditioning is required instead of
regulation and I'm with you there,
I kind of like these actions as they remove easily and although the piano in
general may have limitations they are miles ahead of almost any other drop
action in servicability and playability.
Best wishes,
Tom D.
----- Original Message -----
From: Kerry <mailto:kerrykean at att.net>
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Wurlitzer spinet ugh
If I'm visualizing this right, the wippens have already dropped and they're
still sitting on the capstans. By lowering the rail (I've done this too)
instead of raising the capstans, what you're changing is the angle at which
the capstan addresses the cloth on the horizontal part of the sticker. It
seems to me you could be introducing some friction, especially if there was
a lot of wear on the felt. I'm with you guys on removing each key to adjust
lost motion, and only lowering the rail if the capstans are too high already
(which probably means the action is worn out anyway).
Kerry Kean
www.ohiopianotuner.com <http://www.ohiopianotuner.com/>
_____
From: Gerald Groot [mailto:tunerboy3 at comcast.net]
Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 10:36 AM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Wurlitzer spinet ugh
You know, you could be right Tom. I'm picturing lowering the rail which
would move the wippens lower, which yes, will eliminate lost most alright
but, wouldn't it also leave the possibility of less after touch if the
capstans actually needed to be moved up for the compensation instead? Hmmm,
got me to thinking now.. Especially if dampers are barely coming from
strings from normal wear and tear or, am I visualizing this funny?
From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Tom Driscoll
Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 8:55 AM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Wurlitzer spinet ugh
----- Original Message -----
From: Gerald Groot <mailto:tunerboy3 at comcast.net>
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 8:45 AM
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Wurlitzer spinet ugh
I might add that you will have to be careful in doing this. If there is not
enough after touch when you lower the rail, you will have bobbling hammers.
You may want to check one or two in each section, bass, tenor, treble to see
what kind of feel you have in this before proceeding all the way with the
others.
Also, if they keys are not level, that will make a difference in your
aftertouch as well. It will be inconsistent. While lost motion eliminates
a lot of problems, the rail will still have to be set at the proper height
first. Usually, when the blue screws are set, that is about where the
action belongs, but nothing is set in stone with pianos.
I do the same as Tom, removing keys, turning the capstans, getting a feel
for how many turns are required before putting it back in and then do a
whole bunch at a time once I get the feel for it.
Jer
Jer,
I'm not following you on this one. When you lower the rail it is the same
as raising the capstan. In either case the whippen starts moving earlier in
the keystroke and no matter what the aftertouch situation there will be more
aftertouch after moving the rail and less chance of bobbling.
Just my take,
Best wishes,
Tom D.
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