I've had good success with using a heat gun on both butt and hammer. 2-3 min. And slowly twist out , then remove excess glue. Rick Ucci/ Ucci Piano On Oct 11, 2009, at 3:42 PM, John Ross <jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca> wrote: > Actually, I am going to change my statement about C/A glue, and hammer > replacement. > I now remember using the gap filling stuff, for an emergency repair, > where I > found one broken before a concert. > It held, where no other glue would. > I was just thinking of situations, where time was of no consequence, > then > C/A is something I wouldn't use. > I must remember to look at the whole picture, instead of my sometimes > 'tunnel vision', where I am only focused on one situation. > Sorry. > John Ross > Windsor, Nova Scotia. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Gerald Groot" <tunerboy3 at comcast.net> > To: <pianotech at ptg.org> > Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 2:50 PM > Subject: Re: [pianotech] Broken hammer shank on a Yamaha Spinet > > > John, > > I normally do not use CA glue unless I'm in a pinch and it must be > fixed > immediately. Tight bond is the preferred glue however, CA can and > does work > depending on what type you use, how you use it and how much is > used. But, > as I said, I prefer Tight Bond if the appropriate time is available. > > -----Original Message----- > From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] > On Behalf > Of John Ross > Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 1:46 PM > To: pianotech at ptg.org > Subject: Re: [pianotech] Broken hammer shank on a Yamaha Spinet > > I much prefer to remove the shank, with a shank removal tool. > Then you have the angle. > If it is broken off too close, then use Joe Garrett's method. > Much better way to get the angle. > This is the first, and I hope last time I hear of someone using C/A > glue, to > > glue the shanks to hammers or butts. > C/A has it's place, but this is not one of them. > John Ross, > Windsor, Nova Scotia > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Gerald Groot" <tunerboy3 at comcast.net> > To: <pianotech at ptg.org> > Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 2:34 PM > Subject: Re: [pianotech] Broken hammer shank on a Yamaha Spinet > > > The easiest way is to remove the action. More time involved but at > least > you will have the action on a bench where you can get at what you > need to > get at. Then remove the part as you have done, snip it and drill a > hole in > the butt. (I could add something to that butt I'd better not...)-)) > Place > the butt back in and dry fit the shank. If the angle isn't just > right and > the heels are not matching etc., you can shave the bottom part of > the shank > on an angle from about 1/2" up down to the bottom of the shank > depending on > how deep you drilled the hole in the butt. Then you can turn the > shank so > that it either raises or lowers the butt heel to match the correct > angle. > > Now, drill a hole into the hammer head on the same angle as the > others are > after snipping the excess old one out and sanding or filing it flush > with > the hammer head. I usually drill it about 3/4 of the way through > and then > punch a very tiny hole through the top of the hammer head with a > needle to > allow the excess glue to ooze out. > > Do the same thing here. Cut the shank slowly until you have the > correct > height then work on the shank shaving "if necessary" on an angle > from about > 1/4" down the shank up to the top. That will allow front to back > movement > and probably some side to side movement for alignment. > > Personally, I prefer using Tight Bond. I have used CA before because > it > dries fast but, it can be a messy clean up. Once you find the correct > angle's, glue er in. I glue in the bottom first. Let it dry good > before you > > glue in the top so you don't have the whole thing moving around on > you. CA > works good in both cases if you want a faster dry and it will be > solid but, > as I said, I prefer tight bond. Just depends on the situation and > time I > have allowed for it. > > -----Original Message----- > From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] > On Behalf > > Of Rob McCall > Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 1:55 AM > To: pianotech at ptg.org > Subject: [pianotech] Broken hammer shank on a Yamaha Spinet > > Greetings list, > > I serviced a 1967 Yamaha Spinet today that was in remarkably good > condition, > > except for one small item. The owner's grandson somehow opened the > lid a > while back and grabbed A#4 by the hammer and broke it off. It's > broken very > close to the hammer butt, so I plan on using the Spurlock method > with the > drywall screw, wallpaper paste remover, heat, etc. to remove the > remnant > still left in the hammer butt. > > I've attached a photo of what it currently looks like. The extra > glob of > glue is from the owner's attempt to use gorilla glue to fix it. He > said it > worked for about 10 notes and then broke again. I have a new hammer > shank > I'm going to use. > > My problem is this... Normally I would glue one end into the hammer > butt > and then dry fit the hammer so the height matches the neighboring > hammers. I > > would then cut off the excess above the top edge of the hammer. This > hammer, > > though, is not drilled all the way through, so that option is out. > (see > photo) > > I could attach the hammer to the shank and then dry fit the butt > end, trim > as necessary and then glue, but I don't want to attempt to glue the > shank in > > place when it's way down into the drop action. I'm afraid of > getting glue > on something I don't want way down in the abyss of the action. > > I could also remove the butt/flange and glue the shank outside of > the action > > once the correct length has been determined and then put it back in, > but > getting to the flange screw is a royal pain in the... > > well... hammer butt. It almost takes one of those "cirque du soleil" > feats of body twisting to use a thin screwdriver from underneath the > keybed, > > between the stickers, while holding the top part from above the > action. > > So... I'm trying to find an easier way to get the correct length > without > getting glue all over the place or having to remove and replace the > butt > flange multiple times. Any ideas, sequences, or tricks? Other than > hire an > > apprentice, that is? :-) > > > Rob McCall > McCall Piano Service, LLC > Murrieta, CA > > rob at mccallpiano.com > www.mccallpiano.com > 951-698-1875 > > > > _____ > > avast! Antivirus <http://www.avast.com> : Outbound message clean. > > > Virus Database (VPS): 091010-0, 10/10/2009 > Tested on: 10/11/2009 1:34:32 PM > avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2009 ALWIL Software. > > > > > > _____ > > avast! Antivirus <http://www.avast.com> : Outbound message clean. > > > Virus Database (VPS): 091010-0, 10/10/2009 > Tested on: 10/11/2009 1:50:51 PM > avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2009 ALWIL Software. > > > >
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