Rob, Remove the action for your repair. Remove 2 neighbouring hammer assemblies and use clamped either side for accurate hammer position. Sometimes it's quicker the long way!! > I've attached a photo of what it currently looks like. The extra glob > of glue is from the owner's attempt to use gorilla glue to fix it. He > said it worked for about 10 notes and then broke again. I have a new > hammer shank I'm going to use. > > My problem is this... Normally I would glue one end into the hammer > butt and then dry fit the hammer so the height matches the neighboring > hammers. I would then cut off the excess above the top edge of the > hammer. This hammer, though, is not drilled all the way through, so > that option is out. (see photo) > > I could attach the hammer to the shank and then dry fit the butt end, > trim as necessary and then glue, but I don't want to attempt to glue > the shank in place when it's way down into the drop action. I'm > afraid of getting glue on something I don't want way down in the abyss > of the action. > > I could also remove the butt/flange and glue the shank outside of the > action once the correct length has been determined and then put it > back in, but getting to the flange screw is a royal pain in the... > well... hammer butt. It almost takes one of those "cirque du soleil" > feats of body twisting to use a thin screwdriver from underneath the > keybed, between the stickers, while holding the top part from above > the action. > > So... I'm trying to find an easier way to get the correct length > without getting glue all over the place or having to remove and > replace the butt flange multiple times. Any ideas, sequences, or > tricks? Other than hire an apprentice, that is? :-) > > > Rob McCall > McCall Piano Service, LLC > Murrieta, CA > > rob at mccallpiano.com > www.mccallpiano.com > 951-698-1875 > >
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