[pianotech] Stringing Tool

Al Guecia/AlliedPianoCraft AlliedPianoCraft at hotmail.com
Mon Oct 5 11:10:10 MDT 2009


As shown by Paul here, using markings I made on my cutter is the method I have been using since I started stringing. It's the way it's done at many factories. But after reading all the different ways of measuring and tools being used to measure, I thought I'd made up a new measuring device this morning. I'll give it a try on my next stringing job.

Al 
      Bottom up to mark goes into tuning pin hole. Cutting length is adjustable. 

  From: PAULREVENKOJONES at aol.com 
  Sent: Saturday, October 03, 2009 4:31 PM
  To: pianotech at ptg.org 
  Subject: Re: [pianotech] Stringing Tool


  Attached is a drawing of the 7" Starrett wire cutters with the dimension for cutting the lengths embedded in the tool. Too simple, by far. And yes, becket alignment isn't world peace, but it's a sign of mindfulness.

  Paul

  In a message dated 10/3/2009 1:20:27 P.M. Central Daylight Time, bill at a440piano.net writes:
    So here is the tool I use that a friend of mine made for me.  As I
    said before, given the option of having beckets line up or not, given
    the same effort, line them up.  The right tool has made the difference
    for me.  Of course there are more important functional considerations,
    but that is not the question any more.

    The tool is a pair of end cutters, with a small groove ground out of
    the end.  The 1/4" threaded rod is taped to the handle, bent to fit
    throught the groove, and extends plenty far for even the thickest
    strings.  The brass nuts are separated with paired nylon washers,
    allowing you to make micro adjustments as you work your way through
    the piano so beckets continue to all be precisely in the same
    location.  The other component is a 1/4" rod that is placed in the
    tuning pin hole.

    The process is simple: I wrap on three turns, pound the first pin,
    route the wire throught the bridge pins, around the hitch, and then
    straight back to the rod (not going through the second set of bridge
    pins).  Then, pulling the string taught, and with the nuts of the wire
    cutters pressed firmly against the rod, cut the wire to length.  Route
    the second half, wrap on 2 1/2 turns and pound in.

    A little give and take is required to get it down perfect in terms of
    how many wraps you do on either end, how long to cut the wire, etc.,
    but usually by the second or third pin, all is in order.  Works very
    well for me.

    William R. Monroe



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