urea-formaldehyde

[Farrell]

The lightest one, they call "white". It is yellow. The glue line is apparent 
when laminating ribs. IMHO, it is fine because I really like the stuff, but 
it is not as cosmetically appealing as Titebond.

Terry Farrell

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "marco de lellis home" <info at pianoworkshopny.com>
To: "'Pianotech List'" <pianotech at ptg.org>
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2008 8:35 PM
Subject: RE: urea-formaldehyde


> Thanks for your suggestion I will try the unibond 800 but what color it's
> better for sitka ribs lamination? They offer three different tone.
>
> Thanks again
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On 
> Behalf
> Of Farrell
> Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2008 12:01 PM
> To: Pianotech List
> Subject: Re: urea-formaldehyde
>
> Indeed. I used both methods depending on the application. Slabs of ribs 
> and
> laminating any sort or larger surface, I generally use vacuum pressing. 
> But
> more linear objects like laminated bridge roots, caps and cut-off bars, I
> generally use some sort of screw clamp arrangement.
>
> Terry Farrell
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
>>I second Terry's experience with unibond 800...easy to use, easy to
>>procure, effective, but requires a minimum cure temp of 65 deg. works with
>>standard clamp procedures, not only vac clamp systems.
>>
>>
>>>A product I've been using for several years called Unibond 800 has proven
>>>to me to be excellent.
>>
>>>http://www.vacupress.com/veneerglue.htm
>>
>>>Terry Farrell
>>>Farrell Piano, Inc.
>> --
>> Jim Ialeggio
>> www.grandpianosolutions.com
>> Shirley, MA (978) 425-9026
>>
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