Pictures of Will's hammer tapering jig

Kent Swafford kswafford at gmail.com
Fri Sep 12 09:46:42 MDT 2008


The archived version is at:

http://tinyurl.com/4jjjbp

https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/2008-September/227346.html

The photos are at the 3 links at the bottom of the page.



K


On Sep 12, 2008, at 9:57 AM, Paul McCloud wrote:

> Am I the only one with large boxes with a red "X" in it?  Why can't  
> I see
> the photos?
> Paul McCloud
> San Diego
>
> Paul McCloud
> Service Technician for PianoSD.com
> www.pianoservsd.com
> Created with free BlueVoda software:
> http://www.vodahost.com/partner/idevaffiliate.php?id=9223_1_3_9
>
>
>
>> [Original Message]
>> From: Kent Swafford <kswafford at gmail.com>
>> To: Pianotech List <pianotech at ptg.org>
>> Date: 09/12/2008 7:25:48 AM
>> Subject: Pictures of Will's hammer tapering jig
>>
>> Here is the post with photos that Will has been trying to send,  
>> edited
>> to fit here:
>>
>>
>> From: "Will Truitt" <surfdog at metrocast.net>
>> Date: September 10, 2008 7:35:38 PM CDT
>> To: "'Pianotech List'" <pianotech at ptg.org>
>> Subject: Pictures of my hammer tapering jig
>>
>>
>> Hello all:
>>
>> For those of you who have been participating in the ongoing  
>> discussion
>> about tapering hammers that have already been hung on their shanks, I
>> am enclosing pictures of the jig I made several years ago when I
>> needed to taper a couple of sets of hammers where these operations  
>> had
>> been ignored.
>>
>> In the interest of full disclosure, I must confess that I didn’t like
>> everything about the jig – the hold down device was too flimsy and
>> flexible.  So yesterday  I made a quick redesign, beefing it up and
>> changing a couple of things.  I modified only the one jig, but you
>> will need to make two, each to taper one side of the hammer, and will
>> be a mirror image of each other.  Not shown on the bottom is the
>> runner that fits in the slot on your table saw.   You should be able
>> to see enough to get the idea.
>>
>> You will see that my jig is adjustable for both width of cut and  
>> angle
>> of cut – don’ try to make jigs where these values are fixed .  When
>> you have got the angle and depth dialed in, you can walk the jig over
>> to the drill press, drill a hole through the turntable into the cross
>> slide, and then into but not through the base.  Stick a balance rail
>> pin into the hole, and you will have an index for a preset that you
>> can go back to quickly for a particular make of hammer.  This is
>> important, because setting things up involves  a lot of trial and
>> error and time (if anybody knows a quick way to do this part of it,
>> I’d like to know!)
>>
>> This jig can be used for both hung and unhung hammers.  I have 2 sets
>> of jigs, as I had built jigs for tapering unhung hammers long ago.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> This is a top view.  The jig consists of three basic levels:  the
>> base, which has a routed slot where the second level, the cross slide
>> sits and  can be adjusted towards or away from the saw blade by the
>> adjustment screw at the end with an allen wrench,  A machine bolt is
>> counter sunk up through the bass, and goes through the slot in the
>> cross slide, and locked in place with a wing nut.  On top of that  
>> sits
>> the third level, what I call the turntable.  That is held in place  
>> and
>> adjusted in the same manner as the cross slide, except that the
>> turntable pivots around its bolt, and adjusts the angle of the taper.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Here is the view from the side which faces the saw blade.  I have  
>> used
>> a half inch bolt recessed into the hold down.  The hold down pivots
>> around the bolt.   The hold down arm is made of Delignit bridge
>> stock.   You will want to shape it where it contacts the hammers, so
>> as to have adequate bearing surface no matter what the shape of the
>> hammer is.  Line the inside with some coarse sandpaper or roughen it
>> sufficiently with a checkering file or such so that you have a
>> stronger frictional contact.  Ignore the wood blocks seen under the
>> jig, I used them to prop up the jig on its side to photograph it, and
>> the runner for the slot in the table saw table is not attached at the
>> time of the photo.
>>
>> If you are concerned that such an arrangement will not hold the  
>> hammer
>> down with enough pressure, know that I can bear down hard enough on
>> the hammer head that I could pull on the shank and snap it  I wanted
>> to.   Plus the pressure of the blade will push the tail against the
>> back stop, and rest of it into the sidewall.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Shown is how my hand will be positioned as I am holding down the
>> hammer to trim it.
>>
>> I must confess to being an hacker and a dubber when it comes to
>> photography at present.  I used a free image editing software package
>> called Picasa 3 to crop, boost contrast, sharpness, and a few other
>> things to make it look like  I know what I am doing  - I don’t, but I
>> sure can fake it.  Very easy to use, too.  It allowed me to add the
>> text to the photo above, and I simply copied and pasted from Picasa
>> into MS Outlook for this e-mail message.
>>
>> Please feel free to ask any questions you may have.  I hope this can
>> be of value to some of you.
>>
>> Respectfully,
>>
>> Will Truitt
>>
>
>




More information about the Pianotech mailing list

This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC