The archived version is at: http://tinyurl.com/4jjjbp https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/2008-September/227346.html The photos are at the 3 links at the bottom of the page. K On Sep 12, 2008, at 9:57 AM, Paul McCloud wrote: > Am I the only one with large boxes with a red "X" in it? Why can't > I see > the photos? > Paul McCloud > San Diego > > Paul McCloud > Service Technician for PianoSD.com > www.pianoservsd.com > Created with free BlueVoda software: > http://www.vodahost.com/partner/idevaffiliate.php?id=9223_1_3_9 > > > >> [Original Message] >> From: Kent Swafford <kswafford at gmail.com> >> To: Pianotech List <pianotech at ptg.org> >> Date: 09/12/2008 7:25:48 AM >> Subject: Pictures of Will's hammer tapering jig >> >> Here is the post with photos that Will has been trying to send, >> edited >> to fit here: >> >> >> From: "Will Truitt" <surfdog at metrocast.net> >> Date: September 10, 2008 7:35:38 PM CDT >> To: "'Pianotech List'" <pianotech at ptg.org> >> Subject: Pictures of my hammer tapering jig >> >> >> Hello all: >> >> For those of you who have been participating in the ongoing >> discussion >> about tapering hammers that have already been hung on their shanks, I >> am enclosing pictures of the jig I made several years ago when I >> needed to taper a couple of sets of hammers where these operations >> had >> been ignored. >> >> In the interest of full disclosure, I must confess that I didnt like >> everything about the jig the hold down device was too flimsy and >> flexible. So yesterday I made a quick redesign, beefing it up and >> changing a couple of things. I modified only the one jig, but you >> will need to make two, each to taper one side of the hammer, and will >> be a mirror image of each other. Not shown on the bottom is the >> runner that fits in the slot on your table saw. You should be able >> to see enough to get the idea. >> >> You will see that my jig is adjustable for both width of cut and >> angle >> of cut don try to make jigs where these values are fixed . When >> you have got the angle and depth dialed in, you can walk the jig over >> to the drill press, drill a hole through the turntable into the cross >> slide, and then into but not through the base. Stick a balance rail >> pin into the hole, and you will have an index for a preset that you >> can go back to quickly for a particular make of hammer. This is >> important, because setting things up involves a lot of trial and >> error and time (if anybody knows a quick way to do this part of it, >> Id like to know!) >> >> This jig can be used for both hung and unhung hammers. I have 2 sets >> of jigs, as I had built jigs for tapering unhung hammers long ago. >> >> >> >> >> >> This is a top view. The jig consists of three basic levels: the >> base, which has a routed slot where the second level, the cross slide >> sits and can be adjusted towards or away from the saw blade by the >> adjustment screw at the end with an allen wrench, A machine bolt is >> counter sunk up through the bass, and goes through the slot in the >> cross slide, and locked in place with a wing nut. On top of that >> sits >> the third level, what I call the turntable. That is held in place >> and >> adjusted in the same manner as the cross slide, except that the >> turntable pivots around its bolt, and adjusts the angle of the taper. >> >> >> >> >> >> Here is the view from the side which faces the saw blade. I have >> used >> a half inch bolt recessed into the hold down. The hold down pivots >> around the bolt. The hold down arm is made of Delignit bridge >> stock. You will want to shape it where it contacts the hammers, so >> as to have adequate bearing surface no matter what the shape of the >> hammer is. Line the inside with some coarse sandpaper or roughen it >> sufficiently with a checkering file or such so that you have a >> stronger frictional contact. Ignore the wood blocks seen under the >> jig, I used them to prop up the jig on its side to photograph it, and >> the runner for the slot in the table saw table is not attached at the >> time of the photo. >> >> If you are concerned that such an arrangement will not hold the >> hammer >> down with enough pressure, know that I can bear down hard enough on >> the hammer head that I could pull on the shank and snap it I wanted >> to. Plus the pressure of the blade will push the tail against the >> back stop, and rest of it into the sidewall. >> >> >> >> >> >> Shown is how my hand will be positioned as I am holding down the >> hammer to trim it. >> >> I must confess to being an hacker and a dubber when it comes to >> photography at present. I used a free image editing software package >> called Picasa 3 to crop, boost contrast, sharpness, and a few other >> things to make it look like I know what I am doing - I dont, but I >> sure can fake it. Very easy to use, too. It allowed me to add the >> text to the photo above, and I simply copied and pasted from Picasa >> into MS Outlook for this e-mail message. >> >> Please feel free to ask any questions you may have. I hope this can >> be of value to some of you. >> >> Respectfully, >> >> Will Truitt >> > >
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