Pictures of Will's hammer tapering jig

Kent Swafford kswafford at gmail.com
Fri Sep 12 08:16:17 MDT 2008


Here is the post with photos that Will has been trying to send, edited  
to fit here:


From: "Will Truitt" <surfdog at metrocast.net>
Date: September 10, 2008 7:35:38 PM CDT
To: "'Pianotech List'" <pianotech at ptg.org>
Subject: Pictures of my hammer tapering jig


Hello all:

For those of you who have been participating in the ongoing discussion  
about tapering hammers that have already been hung on their shanks, I  
am enclosing pictures of the jig I made several years ago when I  
needed to taper a couple of sets of hammers where these operations had  
been ignored.

In the interest of full disclosure, I must confess that I didn’t like  
everything about the jig – the hold down device was too flimsy and  
flexible.  So yesterday  I made a quick redesign, beefing it up and  
changing a couple of things.  I modified only the one jig, but you  
will need to make two, each to taper one side of the hammer, and will  
be a mirror image of each other.  Not shown on the bottom is the  
runner that fits in the slot on your table saw.   You should be able  
to see enough to get the idea.

You will see that my jig is adjustable for both width of cut and angle  
of cut – don’ try to make jigs where these values are fixed .  When  
you have got the angle and depth dialed in, you can walk the jig over  
to the drill press, drill a hole through the turntable into the cross  
slide, and then into but not through the base.  Stick a balance rail  
pin into the hole, and you will have an index for a preset that you  
can go back to quickly for a particular make of hammer.  This is  
important, because setting things up involves  a lot of trial and  
error and time (if anybody knows a quick way to do this part of it,  
I’d like to know!)

This jig can be used for both hung and unhung hammers.  I have 2 sets  
of jigs, as I had built jigs for tapering unhung hammers long ago.





This is a top view.  The jig consists of three basic levels:  the  
base, which has a routed slot where the second level, the cross slide  
sits and  can be adjusted towards or away from the saw blade by the  
adjustment screw at the end with an allen wrench,  A machine bolt is  
counter sunk up through the bass, and goes through the slot in the  
cross slide, and locked in place with a wing nut.  On top of that sits  
the third level, what I call the turntable.  That is held in place and  
adjusted in the same manner as the cross slide, except that the  
turntable pivots around its bolt, and adjusts the angle of the taper.





Here is the view from the side which faces the saw blade.  I have used  
a half inch bolt recessed into the hold down.  The hold down pivots  
around the bolt.   The hold down arm is made of Delignit bridge  
stock.   You will want to shape it where it contacts the hammers, so  
as to have adequate bearing surface no matter what the shape of the  
hammer is.  Line the inside with some coarse sandpaper or roughen it  
sufficiently with a checkering file or such so that you have a  
stronger frictional contact.  Ignore the wood blocks seen under the  
jig, I used them to prop up the jig on its side to photograph it, and  
the runner for the slot in the table saw table is not attached at the  
time of the photo.

If you are concerned that such an arrangement will not hold the hammer  
down with enough pressure, know that I can bear down hard enough on  
the hammer head that I could pull on the shank and snap it  I wanted  
to.   Plus the pressure of the blade will push the tail against the  
back stop, and rest of it into the sidewall.





Shown is how my hand will be positioned as I am holding down the  
hammer to trim it.

I must confess to being an hacker and a dubber when it comes to  
photography at present.  I used a free image editing software package  
called Picasa 3 to crop, boost contrast, sharpness, and a few other  
things to make it look like  I know what I am doing  - I don’t, but I  
sure can fake it.  Very easy to use, too.  It allowed me to add the  
text to the photo above, and I simply copied and pasted from Picasa  
into MS Outlook for this e-mail message.

Please feel free to ask any questions you may have.  I hope this can  
be of value to some of you.

Respectfully,

Will Truitt
  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20080912/ff822cb7/attachment-0001.html 
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: attachment-0001.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 39500 bytes
Desc: not available
Url : https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20080912/ff822cb7/attachment-0003.jpg 
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: attachment-0002.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 37303 bytes
Desc: not available
Url : https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20080912/ff822cb7/attachment-0004.jpg 
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: attachment-0003.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 45861 bytes
Desc: not available
Url : https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20080912/ff822cb7/attachment-0005.jpg 


More information about the Pianotech mailing list

This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC