spring loops

[Joe And Penny Goss]

Hi Richard,
There is also one other way this could have happened that I have come across.
If there is any space under the bracket where it goes on the bolt, when the soft 
or sustain pedals are used it will gradually lift the action up and result in huge
lost motion. 
I have only seen this once on a Yamaha and I think part of the problem was 
that there was only two action brackets that held the action in place.
Joe Goss RPT
Mother Goose Tools
imatunr at srvinet.com
www.mothergoosetools.com
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: richard.ucci at att.net 
  To: Pianotech List 
  Sent: Monday, September 01, 2008 8:25 AM
  Subject: RE: spring loops


  I'm going with the theory that the action was put back wrongly by the previous tech, some years ago, and now I had to put the thing right again. By the way, this is a school piano that was rode hard and put away wet.  The spring loops are just the tip of the iceberg of what this thing needs.
  RU/UP
    -------------- Original message from "tom" <tomtuner at verizon.net>: -------------- 


    Rick.

                If you felt the “click “ and all the hammers are on the same line my theory on this problem may be off base. .Also, I only suggested removing one assembly to check that the flange is tightened in the correct position..

    Still the question remains---What caused such a drastic change in geometry?

                Tom Driscoll

     


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    From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of richard.ucci at att.net
    Sent: Monday, September 01, 2008 9:30 AM
    To: Pianotech List
    Subject: RE: spring loops

     

    Tom, you could be right, it is very difficult to check the pin when the butt in inserted. It felt like it popped into position, and all the hammers lined up at the same height. The idea was not to have to remove all the flanges during the loop repair process.

    RU/UP

      -------------- Original message from "tom" <tomtuner at verizon.net>: -------------- 




      Rick,

      This is puzzling. If the action is placed back in the piano in the same position as when it was removed the jack top to butt relationship should be unchanged. The main action rail and action mounting studs are untouched in the process.

      I think you may have installed the hammer-butt assembly onto the flange and not matched the slot in butt with the center pin.  Essentially this will lower each hammer assembly pushing the shank off the rail and causing the hammer to block. Pull out one butt and flange, observe the slot and assemble correctly out of the piano. When I tighten the butt plate I move the butt until the center pin “snaps“ into the slot then tighten the plate. If I am correct when you put the assembly back in , there will be excessive lost motion and letoff on that note.

      I can’t think of any other reason for such a drastic change in the key-action relationship.

       

      This may be a good example of when to step back and figure out what has happened before readjusting everything.

      I’ll be interested in what you find,

      Best wishes,

      Tom D.

       


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      From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of richard.ucci at att.net
      Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 11:08 AM
      To: pianotech
      Subject: spring loops

       

      List,

      Just completed  Yamaha spring loop replacement. Followed Tom D's method. Went well , and after filing hammers, cleaning slots , cutting cord, and glueing new cords, it took about 6hrs.

       

      When I installed the action back in the piano(p-22) , all of the hammers were way up off the rail and blocking when played. The solution I took was to lower capstans and lower let-off button and reset backcheck distance.

       

      My question is: What caused the capstans to change their relationship to the whippens so drasticaly ?

       

      Thanks,

      Rick Ucci/Ucci Piano

       

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