The square of maple is another good idea... David Ilvedson, RPT Pacifica, CA 94044 ----- Original message ---------------------------------------- From: erwinspiano at aol.com To: pianotech at ptg.org Received: 6/11/2008 7:28:19 AM Subject: Re: pitman retrofit >??? This is S.o.p. in our shop too. I have found that if I start at 3 1/2 inches I usually >am real close. However I do drill into the under lever the depth of a punching.? On >the tray I've been using a !/4 inch thick square of maple with a 3/4 inch hole cut into >it, then ,as you I align it for optimal travel & glue it in place.? No Squeaks, no >Sqauwks, no call backs. >? Thanks Mark >? Dale >Thanks, David? - I'm glad you've found it useful. And yes Bob & Dale,? I do make a >new pitman (see the first sentence of the quote below). If you'll be replacing one of >those accursed brass pitmans (pitmen?) then you will of course have to enlarge the >hole in the keybed, or at least remove the felt. OTOH, if the original pitman was 5/8" >then I'll often leave the felt in the hole. That way it helps to keep the new pitman >from dropping out if I need to lower the trap lever for any reason. In operation the >new pitman will not contact the felt at all. >I'm still trying to find a foolproof method of cutting the new pitman to length. Now >I'm just taking the length of the old pitman and adding the thickness of the old >buckskin on the trap lever and underside of the damper tray, then subtracting the >combined thickness of the new 5/8" pitman punchings (incidentally, I've been using >Pianotek's thick pear backrail cloth for the punchings). >- Mark Dierauf >David Ilvedson wrote: >List, >? >Last year Mark Dierauf detailed his method of retro-fitting the Steinway pitman.?? >I've had great success using his method >in the post reprinted below from the archives: >? >"I'm using 3/8" dowel with a 5/8" punching. Also, rather than drilling a? >shallow hole in the tray and trap lever, I use a roughly 1" square of 1/4"? >cowhide, with a 5/8" hole drilled through it, on both the tray and lever. I? can >position these and the new pitman, lined up through the hole through the? keybed, >until I get the straightest run. Then I mark their positions, remove? the >pitman and glue the leather blocks in place. An appropriate wedge under? the tray >acts as a clamp, and I use a spring clamp on the trap lever. Gluing? the >rough side of the lever with titebond, it dries adequately in a minute or? so, and >if I should screw something up I figure it will be a lot easier to? remove >the leather blocks than to un-drill holes in the parts. If you're? dealing with >an older Steinway with the 5/8" original pitman, it isn't even? necessary to >drill out the hole through the keybed." >- Mark Dierauf >THANKS MARK!! >? >David Ilvedson, RPT >Pacifica, CA 94044
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC