Hitch Pin Replacement Question

[bunkyaol]

Am I missing something?  Why and when is it necessary to change hitch pins in a cast iron plate unless they have been broken or damaged.  I've refinished several hundred plates and, to my knowledge,  the one's I've replaced I can still count on one hand.  They are there for the life of the piano.  Regarding the last post on the SAT, if you have to ask what charger replacement you should use, I still insist you send it back to Sanderson because you WILL be the one who reverses the polarity, and if it's been serviced lately, they would be glad to replace a charger, reasonably, after making sure you have the latest software and hardware upgrades...still makes the best sense on an instrument of this nature..
Tom Mc Nabb
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Nossaman" <rnossaman at cox.net>
To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org>
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: Hitch Pin Replacement Question


> 
> > Just curious Jon - why do you say to "be prepared to go through many 
> > bits while drilling?" I find plate iron to drill wonderfully easy and 
> > smoothly - or are you trying to dril through old hitch pins or 
> > something? If there is any room at all, I always try to drill into 
> > virgin territory for my vertical hitches.
> > 
> > Terry Farrell
> 
> David Hughes wasn't asking about vertical hitches. He's 
> replacing originals with new and shiny. But since it was 
> brought up, drilling through the middle of the old pin is one 
> of the best ways ever invented to break bits. If you can't get 
> the old pin out, and don't have room on the riser to move to 
> virgin territory, grind them off flush and center punch the 
> back edge. Drilling vertically, you are taking out some of the 
> pin, and some of the plate, but the bottom of the pin is out 
> of the way and still embedded in iron so it won't turn and 
> grab the bit. As always, at least two passes. One undersize, 
> and one ream to final.
> Ron N
> 
> 
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> 
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