Ultimate Table Saw

[Paul McCloud]

Hi, Terry:
    Yes- about that bandsaw...!  Kinda hard to do 4X8 plywood w/ it!  Ok, so there's other saws that'll do that job.  I love hearing about your bandsaw escapades.

    Well, long ago I went to LA Trade Tech as an aspiring cabinetmaker.  Tho I didn't last there, I did see some nasty stuff.  A guy there lost all his fingers in a jointer.  The cardinal sin on a jointer is a short stick- it'll drop into the blades (with your fingers close behind) before it reaches the other table.  He was always horsing and joking around, until he broke that rule.  Needless to say, he never became the cabinetmaker he wanted to be.

    How about some do's and don'ts (add yours here):

    When using the fence, never saw a short stick thru the saw lengthwise (rip cut) that is shorter than the exposed blade.   
    If the work binds, turn off the saw.  
    Don't pull the material out of the saw halfway though the cut while the blade is still moving.  Turn it off first.    
    Never reach over the moving saw blade to pull the material out as you feed it.  
    Stand to the side so if the work kicks out, your face isn't there to catch it.  
    Saw blade exposed only enough to make the cut.  You don't need 4" of blade to cut a piece of masonite.
    If you're narrowing a piece of wood, rest the thicker part against the fence to slice off the excess.  On a 2" wide board, where you want to make a 1/8" strip, don't put the fence 1/8" from the blade.  That strip will get caught between the blade and the fence.
    Don't use the fence by itself as a cutoff jig.  Suppose you want to cut a stick into small pieces the same length, say 4".  I'll put the fence 4" from the blade, right?  NOT!  The cutoff wood will bind as soon as it nears the end of the cut.  Instead, clamp a block to the fence, and measure 4" from the block to the blade.  
    Use a feather board to hold the material against the fence as it clears the blade.
    Use a push stick when cutting a narrow strip against the fence 
    Use the splitter/blade guard when ripping.
    Always use the miter gauge or fence.  
    No "freehand" sawing at any time.
    Take the time to set up the saw, setting the blade exactly parallel with the fence and mitre slot.  
    Use a high quality fence, and measure the distance to the blade both on the front and back to be sure the fence is exactly parallel to the blade.
    No long sleeve (loose) clothing.
    Use a clean, sharp blade at all times.  
    Do not "force" the work.  Let the saw take it's time.  If it isn't feeding smoothly, find out why.
    Support your work if it's longer than the saw table (or have an assistant on the other end).  Ripping a 4X8 sheet of plywood on a benchtop saw by yourself is asking for trouble.
    Use the proper blade for the work at hand.  
    Be sure the saw is stable on it's footing, and won't move while you use it.
    Be aware of your surroundings.
    Don't talk to anyone while you are using the saw.
    Keep the area clean around the saw.  You may trip on something.
    Have the power switch within easy reach.  When you're done sawing, turn it off immediately.  
    Let the blade stop completely before you remove any scraps.  Even if it's moving very slowly, you can get kickback (AMHIK).        
    Don't operate the saw while using medications.  You need to be more than alert here.   If you're tired, get some rest.
    Anticipate what could go wrong, and make sure you have a plan to prevent it.  
    If you're using dado blades, make sure the saw has enough power to use them.  An underpowered saw can cause trouble here.  

These saws are extremely useful and versatile, but have a "zero tolerance policy".  A good dose of healthy respect is imperative.  I'm sure most of you guys/gals know this stuff already.  Even one useful tip can save your precious "digits".  

    BE SAFE!

    FWIW,
    Paul McCloud
    San Diego

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Farrell 
To: Pianotech List
Sent: 03/30/2007 6:20:31 AM 
Subject: Re: Ultimate Table Saw


Is there anything we do with pianos on a table saw that a band saw and a router can't (and maybe a hand-held circular saw for plywood and a good hand saw for cutting off large dimension lumber)? I have a Shopsmith, a table saw being the main feature, but I use it mostly for buffing and drilling (horizontal) - I can't remember when I last used it as a table saw.

Table saws scare the heck out of me (or maybe it's the combination of me & a table saw). I've had things kick back so darn hard at me - I simply avoid its use at all costs. I'll be the first to admit, perhaps I just don't know how to use a table saw correctly - but I'll also suggest that there are a lot of folks using table saws that haven't had any more professional woodworking training than I have had (hmmm, could common sense be a factor here?).

So many of the things commonly done on a table saw can be done with a bandsaw. William Monroe suggested: "Ask Terry Farrell about his bandsaw (in case you haven't read enough already ;-}  )." 

Cool suggestion. Anyone want to hear about my bandsaw???  ;-)

Terry Farrell
----- Original Message ----- 

It's taken a good part of my career to figure out that I need to have the best tools possible if I want to do high level work. I'll never forget Laroy Edwards telling me that if you have the right tool, the customer pays for it. If you don't have the right tool, you pay for it. 

Ironically, he himself was a victim of a table saw blade =8-O (long before SawStop).

Tom Cole
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