Chisels

[PAULREVENKOJONES]

Bob:

You just described my technique to a "T". I use the wasting stroke in exactly the same fashion, and no more than two curling strokes. I cut the side first with a fine Japanese kerfing saw and join the cut to the inside bridge pin hole with a fine blade hand-fashioned into a curve from a putty knife. I have been using a long chisel with a 1 1/8" face hollow-ground by hand and I also have a rotary strop which I use every 4-6 cuts to keep the edge. When it's sharp, it cuts like butter!

Paul

"If you want to know the truth, stop having opinions" (Chinese fortune cookie)


In a message dated 03/16/07 01:05:43 Central Daylight Time, BobDavis88 writes:
In a message dated 3/15/2007 8:01:11 PM Pacific Standard Time, rnossaman at cox.net writes:
"Long" always worked best for me. A long bladed 1" paring 
chisel is my choice for hand notching.
Different strokes, so to speak.... I've tried several lengths, including a very long Sorby lathe tool. I think that was suggested by Willis Snyder. I sort of liked the leverage control I had with the "push" hand on the long chisel, but I have gone back to the short Japanese chisel, kept really sharp. It just fits my body best.

I like two things about it. First, I use two different strokes: After the side notches have been made (often roughed in with a saw, then finished with a different chisel w/a curved profile), I put the notching chisel just ahead of the holes, and bump it with the heel of my hand to shear a straight sloped wasting stroke, which removes much of the wood. Then I bisect the holes, push straight down to start the cut, and do the scoop. I like to be able to do the bump and the scoop with the same chisel, and I like having both hands close together like a golf grip, and close to the bridge. Just my take.

Bob Davis










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