> Many chisels, especially high-end chisels, have a cap on the end of the > handle to protect it from damage when it is "hammered on" with a wooden > maul. To do so is legitimate for some wood carving applications, but > not for bridge notching. If you keep the tool sharp enough, there is no > need to pound on it with anything, not even the heel of your palm. With > a sharp chisel, a strong forward and downward rotating thrust will do > the job, even on a laminated cap. I find the cap on the end of a chisel > annoying for bridge notching. I prefer a wood turning chisel, as used > with a lathe, with the cutting tip ground to my liking. The longer > handle gives a little better control of the "scoop." > > Frank Emerson "Long" always worked best for me. A long bladed 1" paring chisel is my choice for hand notching. Something similar to - http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/default.php?cPath=39_171_214 Ron N
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