Glue for cracked rib?

[gordon stelter]

Nope. I mean "split". The piano dried too much, and as
the board shrank away from the soundboard crack,
widening it, it also pried the ribs upwards, actually
splitting 3 of them (!!!) in nice, daigonal lines, as
viewed from the rib sides. ( Never saw THIS before,
and certainly wasn't expecting it!!! ) This glue from
Coleman sounds good,as long as it has very low
viscosity. I'll look into it. 
     Thanks!
     G

--- ed440 at mindspring.com wrote:

> Gordon-
> 
> When you say "cracked" I'm assuming you mean
> "separated," not "split."
> 
> Cold hide glue is usually the restorer's choice in a
> situation like this. It will soften and combine with
> any hide glue that is in the joint.  Hide glue is
> not gap-filling.  (I just came from a great talk by
> Eugene Thorndahl, who has spent 50 years as a hide
> glue chemist. He said the gap-filling properties of
> hide glue are an Internet myth.  <www.bjorn.net>  He
> may be the only source of genuine graded hide glues
> for instrument and restoration work.)
> 
> For a fast repair, consider CE (Cyano-epoxy aka
> Tech-Bond).  It has the shear and shock resistance
> that CA sadly lacks, and sets a bit slower.  Jim
> Coleman, Jr. and a few other specialty distributors
> sell it.
> 
> In either case you may want to drill a hole for
> access to the joint and inject the glue right into
> the center of the problem.
> 
> Ed Sutton
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: gordon stelter <lclgcnp at yahoo.com>
> >Sent: Oct 30, 2006 12:15 PM
> >To: Pianotech List <pianotech at ptg.org>
> >Subject: Re: Glue for cracked rib? ( Terry ????? )
> >
> >Thanks, Terry.
> >      I'm going to run some experiments with the
> other
> >glues, to "see what sticks". But I like your logic
> >about hide-to-hide ( although I think any
> water-based
> >glue will bind nicely with the hide glue, IMHO. One
> >thing that "came to me in a  dream" is this: I have
> >the piano rolled up on its tail so the ribs are
> >horizontla, and WAS intending to drip super-thin CA
> >into the rib crack from the side ( the only type
> thin
> >enopugh to make it in there, probably ) with the
> >portion of the crack on the other side of the rib
> >"dammed up" with masking tape, to keep the CA from
> >just dripping though ( and all over the place ).
> But
> >then I rememberered that the glue on tape
> "activates"
> >the CA, so I might not have time to "pul it all
> >together" with the clamps. So I'll run some tests
> with
> >this. 
> >      3 ribs are cracked ( so much for over-drying
> >boards! ) but only one crack is wide enough to get
> an
> >exacto-knife into. So I'm goping with the
> ultra-thin
> >CA< and leave it all clamped tightly together for
> >several dauys.
> >     I'll let y'all know how it turns out.
> >      Peace,
> >     G
> >
> >--- Farrell <mfarrel2 at tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
> >
> >> The few times I've done this repair I have used
> cold
> >> hide glue. I figure 
> >> there is still hide glue on the glue surfaces, so
> >> more hide glue would 
> >> likely stick the best. It has good gap filling
> >> properties and is easy to 
> >> use. I really don't see what would be better.
> >> Adhesives such as epoxy and 
> >> others are only as good as your surface
> preparation
> >> - and there will be next 
> >> to none with this repair.
> >> 
> >> Terry Farrell
> >> 
> >> ----- Original Message ----- 
> >> > Thanks, Terry.
> >> >     I just made some of these. But the question
> >> > remains: what glue? Bolduc? Epoxy? CA? I'm
> tempted
> >> to
> >> > try ultra-thin CA, simply because it is the
> least
> >> > viscous, and should wick into the rib crack
> well.
> >> > First I plan to blast out the crack in the rib
> >> with
> >> > brake part cleaner and one of those pipette
> tubes
> >> that
> >> > comes with it,  as these is some residue in the
> >> rib
> >> > crack from stripping the board ( with straight
> >> acetone
> >> > ) that went through the soundboard cracks to
> >> below.
> >> > Then I'lll roll the piano on its tail so that
> the
> >> ribs
> >> > are horizontal, and glue dripped on the crack
> from
> >> the
> >> > side will fill it well. Then I'll put in the
> wire
> >> type
> >> > clamp, and waita  few days. Question: I don't
> have
> >> any
> >> > CA accelerator, and none is sold in thios town.
> >> What
> >> > else might help it cure ?
> >> >      If the wire doesn't want to come out, I'll
> >> try
> >> > heating it slightly. Heat softens cured CA>
> >> >     An alternative ( that I've used to get glue
> >> into
> >> > tight spaces ) would to be to squeeze an exacto
> >> knife
> >> > blade into the rib crack, after drilling a tiny
> >> pilot
> >> > hole from above, poutting the drill bit back in
> to
> >> > make sure that the blade stops it, then
> drillinga
> >> > slighly larger hole ( like 1/8" ) from the
> board
> >> side,
> >> > and fliinig it with glue. With the blade still
> in
> >> > place, or with the intitial, smaller bit stuck
> in
> >> the
> >> > back half of the hole, glue can then be
> squeezed (
> >> > witha  hypo ) into the 1/8" hole, and the 1/8"
> bit
> >> > turned around and used as a piston to force it
> >> into
> >> > the joiunt. This works very well to get glue
> into
> >> > tight spaces.
> >> >     What would you do?
> >> >     Thump
> >> >
> >> > --- Farrell <mfarrel2 at tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> I have found using little boat clamps to be
> very
> >> >> useful for jobs like you describe:
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> Plenty strong to pull anything together.
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> Terry Farrell
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- 
> >> >>
> >> >> > I'm going to use a "piano wire tgrough the
> rib"
> >> >> type
> >> >> > clamp. Of course, I'll "dry run" it, first,
> too
> >> >> see if
> >> >> > it's strong enough to oull it back together.
> >> >> >     G
> >> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
>
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> >> 
> >
> >
> >
> > 
>
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