Are there reasons for not using yellow glue, here? (Titebond, Carpenters, etc.) And while I'm asking questions out of ignorance: When you need to fill a gap, what about using panel adhesive--the stuff that looks like peanut butter? Alan Barnard Salem, MO Joshua 24:15 ----- Original message ---------------------------------------- From: ed440 at mindspring.com To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org> Received: 10/30/2006 12:19:53 PM Subject: Re: Glue for cracked rib? >Gordon- >When you say "cracked" I'm assuming you mean "separated," not "split." >Cold hide glue is usually the restorer's choice in a situation like this. It will soften and >combine with any hide glue that is in the joint. Hide glue is not gap-filling. (I just >came from a great talk by Eugene Thorndahl, who has spent 50 years as a hide glue >chemist. He said the gap-filling properties of hide glue are an Internet myth. ><www.bjorn.net> He may be the only source of genuine graded hide glues for >instrument and restoration work.) >For a fast repair, consider CE (Cyano-epoxy aka Tech-Bond). It has the shear and >shock resistance that CA sadly lacks, and sets a bit slower. Jim Coleman, Jr. and a >few other specialty distributors sell it. >In either case you may want to drill a hole for access to the joint and inject the glue >right into the center of the problem. >Ed Sutton >-----Original Message----- >>From: gordon stelter <lclgcnp at yahoo.com> >>Sent: Oct 30, 2006 12:15 PM >>To: Pianotech List <pianotech at ptg.org> >>Subject: Re: Glue for cracked rib? ( Terry ????? ) >> >>Thanks, Terry. >> I'm going to run some experiments with the other >>glues, to "see what sticks". But I like your logic >>about hide-to-hide ( although I think any water-based >>glue will bind nicely with the hide glue, IMHO. One >>thing that "came to me in a dream" is this: I have >>the piano rolled up on its tail so the ribs are >>horizontla, and WAS intending to drip super-thin CA >>into the rib crack from the side ( the only type thin >>enopugh to make it in there, probably ) with the >>portion of the crack on the other side of the rib >>"dammed up" with masking tape, to keep the CA from >>just dripping though ( and all over the place ). But >>then I rememberered that the glue on tape "activates" >>the CA, so I might not have time to "pul it all >>together" with the clamps. So I'll run some tests with >>this. >> 3 ribs are cracked ( so much for over-drying >>boards! ) but only one crack is wide enough to get an >>exacto-knife into. So I'm goping with the ultra-thin >>CA< and leave it all clamped tightly together for >>several dauys. >> I'll let y'all know how it turns out. >> Peace, >> G >> >>--- Farrell <mfarrel2 at tampabay.rr.com> wrote: >> >>> The few times I've done this repair I have used cold >>> hide glue. I figure >>> there is still hide glue on the glue surfaces, so >>> more hide glue would >>> likely stick the best. It has good gap filling >>> properties and is easy to >>> use. I really don't see what would be better. >>> Adhesives such as epoxy and >>> others are only as good as your surface preparation >>> - and there will be next >>> to none with this repair. >>> >>> Terry Farrell >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> > Thanks, Terry. >>> > I just made some of these. But the question >>> > remains: what glue? Bolduc? Epoxy? CA? I'm tempted >>> to >>> > try ultra-thin CA, simply because it is the least >>> > viscous, and should wick into the rib crack well. >>> > First I plan to blast out the crack in the rib >>> with >>> > brake part cleaner and one of those pipette tubes >>> that >>> > comes with it, as these is some residue in the >>> rib >>> > crack from stripping the board ( with straight >>> acetone >>> > ) that went through the soundboard cracks to >>> below. >>> > Then I'lll roll the piano on its tail so that the >>> ribs >>> > are horizontal, and glue dripped on the crack from >>> the >>> > side will fill it well. Then I'll put in the wire >>> type >>> > clamp, and waita few days. Question: I don't have >>> any >>> > CA accelerator, and none is sold in thios town. >>> What >>> > else might help it cure ? >>> > If the wire doesn't want to come out, I'll >>> try >>> > heating it slightly. Heat softens cured CA> >>> > An alternative ( that I've used to get glue >>> into >>> > tight spaces ) would to be to squeeze an exacto >>> knife >>> > blade into the rib crack, after drilling a tiny >>> pilot >>> > hole from above, poutting the drill bit back in to >>> > make sure that the blade stops it, then drillinga >>> > slighly larger hole ( like 1/8" ) from the board >>> side, >>> > and fliinig it with glue. With the blade still in >>> > place, or with the intitial, smaller bit stuck in >>> the >>> > back half of the hole, glue can then be squeezed ( >>> > witha hypo ) into the 1/8" hole, and the 1/8" bit >>> > turned around and used as a piston to force it >>> into >>> > the joiunt. This works very well to get glue into >>> > tight spaces. >>> > What would you do? >>> > Thump >>> > >>> > --- Farrell <mfarrel2 at tampabay.rr.com> wrote: >>> > >>> >> I have found using little boat clamps to be very >>> >> useful for jobs like you describe: >>> >> >>> >> >>> >> >>> >> Plenty strong to pull anything together. >>> >> >>> >> >>> >> >>> >> Terry Farrell >>> >> >>> >> >>> >> ----- Original Message ----- >>> >> >>> >> > I'm going to use a "piano wire tgrough the rib" >>> >> type >>> >> > clamp. Of course, I'll "dry run" it, first, too >>> >> see if >>> >> > it's strong enough to oull it back together. >>> >> > G >>> >> >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> >>__________________________________________________________________ >__________________ >>> > Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low >>> PC-to-Phone call rates >>> > (http://voice.yahoo.com) >>> > >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >>__________________________________________________________________ >__________________ >>Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business >>(http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com) >>
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