Hi Joe, Agreed, those surfaces are very hard and slick. I've one in use. I have a removable back rail that I clamp into place for action work to prevent the slipping, etc. I also have a benchtop with Baltic birch plywood that works well. Next up is a hardwood bench, and with that, I'd use a wipe-on poly. The main idea behind something like the masonite is that it is sacrificial. If you need to do something that might be detrimental to a nice maple workbench, throw a fitted piece of masonite on top and whack away. If it gets too ugly, toss it and fit another, but save that maple. Best, William R. Monroe BTW, I prefer Danish Oil for my tool handles. ;-] > William said: "If you really want protection, you might consider either: > > A. putting a layer of plastic laminate on top of the whole works, (contact > cement, best to make it slightly large, then trim flush to the benchtop > with > a - surprise! flush-trim bit in the router). > > B. making a replaceable top. i.e. keep your benches as they are, but make > a top piece out of 1/4" masonite, with rails that go around the edge of > the > masonite and keep it fitted to the top of the original bench. > > Best, > > > William, > Either o1f which will be tough...HOWEVER<G> Way too darned > slick/slippery/whatever. The workbench needs to be smooth and flat, but > not > so much that you have to chase things around on it. Think about dropping a > screw on Maple top and it will bounce, but not much. Drop it on Masonite > or > such and you'll spend a goodly amount of time on your hands and knees > searching for it. Not to mention "playing" an action, (during regulation), > on something that hard. Also, if the action is not perfectly "bedded" to > the masonite, it'll produce clicks that are NOT IN the action. (an > exercise > in driving one bonkers, IMO!) > A Laminated Maple top is the best surface, IMO. The next would be a dense > plywood, like Baltic Birch, etc. > BTW, I designed and made my work bench over 30 years ago. It is almost as > beautiful as the day I finished it. Anyone who sets a coffee cup on it, > w/o > a coaster, always hears my screams.<G> I've, only, casually cared for it. > (i.e. whenever the mood strikes me.<G>) I've done hundreds of actions on > it. (lost count years ago!) The Tong Oil Finish is still the best way to > go, IMO. BTW, I use Tong Oil for the handles of the tools I make. It has > such a satiny feel, it's almost orgasmic.<G> Not to mention, it makes wood > look BEAUTIFUL!<G > Best Regards, > > > Joseph Garrett, R.P.T. > Captain, Tool Police > Squares R I
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