Finishing Bench Top

[Joseph Garrett]

William said: "If you really want protection, you might consider either:
 
A. putting a layer of plastic laminate on top of the whole works, (contact 
cement, best to make it slightly large, then trim flush to the benchtop
with 
a - surprise! flush-trim bit in the router).
 
B. making a replaceable top. i.e. keep your benches as they are, but make 
a top piece out of 1/4" masonite, with rails that go around the edge of the 
masonite and keep it fitted to the top of the original bench.
 
Best,


William,
Either o1f which will be tough...HOWEVER<G> Way too darned
slick/slippery/whatever. The workbench needs to be smooth and flat, but not
so much that you have to chase things around on it. Think about dropping a
screw on Maple top and it will bounce, but not much. Drop it on Masonite or
such and you'll spend a goodly amount of time on your hands and knees
searching for it. Not to mention "playing" an action, (during regulation),
on something that hard. Also, if the action is not perfectly "bedded" to
the masonite, it'll produce clicks that are NOT IN the action. (an exercise
in driving one bonkers, IMO!)
A Laminated Maple top is the best surface, IMO. The next would be a dense
plywood, like Baltic Birch, etc.
BTW, I designed and made my work bench over 30 years ago. It is almost as
beautiful as the day I finished it. Anyone who sets a coffee cup on it, w/o
a coaster, always hears my screams.<G> I've, only, casually cared for it.
(i.e. whenever the mood strikes me.<G>) I've done hundreds of actions on
it. (lost count years ago!) The Tong Oil Finish is still the best way to
go, IMO. BTW, I use Tong Oil for the handles of the tools I make. It has
such a satiny feel, it's almost orgasmic.<G> Not to mention, it makes wood
look BEAUTIFUL!<G
Best Regards,


Joseph Garrett, R.P.T.
Captain, Tool Police
Squares R I