finishing bench top

Joel A. Jones jajones2 at wisc.edu
Tue Nov 28 21:39:50 MST 2006


William,

What I have been using and enjoying using is a
metal desk.  Top is OK and the drawers with pull
outs make it function well.

However, I have a large Oak door that I though
would be an upgrade.  Problem comes as to what
to put on for a finish.   The most promising to me
was Joe Garrett's suggestions for Tung OIl.  I'm
not clear as to the difference between Danish oil
and Tung oil, or wipe on Poly.   I read that wipe on
was diluted poly taking multiple coats to build a
respectable finish.

Tung Oil I have used on some small items.  Joe's
description of sanding smooth and flat was quite
interesting for my use.

Maybe this could be a subject for a technical.  ??

Joel

On Nov 28, 2006, at 9:48 PM, William R. Monroe wrote:

> Hey Joel,
>
> Good advice from Terry F.  I would probably use a Danish oil or 
> similar, but I think it is important to consider the tasks being done. 
>  When it comes to durability, not much will stand up to a stray 
> screwdriver, but for sliding the action on and off, any standard 
> finishes would be fine - Danish oil, varnish, polyurethane.  As was 
> mentioned, it is very easy to renew an oil finish, without extensive 
> preparation.
>
> If you really want protection, you might consider either:
>
> A.  putting a layer of plastic laminate on top of the whole works, 
> (contact cement, best to make it slightly large, then trim flush to 
> the benchtop with a - surprise! flush-trim bit in the router).
>
> B.  making a replaceable top.  i.e. keep your benches as they are, but 
> make a top piece out of 1/4" masonite, with rails that go around the 
> edge of the masonite and keep it fitted to the top of the original 
> bench.
>
> Best,
> William R. Monroe
>
>
>
>> I think the preferred finish depends largely on what tasks are done 
>> on the bench. I tend to do a lot of gluing - wood glues, 
>> urea-formaldehyde adhesives, epoxy, etc. I always have glue slop, 
>> drips, etc. on my bench. What I have found to work very well is to 
>> sand the surface flat and spray whatever finish I have handy - 
>> usually a water-based lacquer. I put several quick coats on it.
>>
>> Then after I have done some gluing, I scrape off the glue - it 
>> usually takes off a coat of finish - but that way the glue comes off 
>> cleanly and very easily. I just keep doing that until the finish gets 
>> too rough - then I sand it again and spray a few new coats on. I just 
>> keep repeating the process every few months or so. That way I almost 
>> always have a smooth finish on the bench, and one that glue is very 
>> easily removed.
>>
>> Terry Farrell
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> I would use Watco danish oil, or another of their similar oils. The 
>>> oil penetrates the wood, then hardens, providing a tough, non-skin 
>>> surface that can be easily renewed at any time by a simple wipe-on 
>>> application. I don't think you want anything that shines, because it 
>>> won't for long, and a slick surface is not work-friendly.
>>>
>>> -Mark Schecter
>>>
>>> Joel A. Jones wrote:
>>>> Hi all,
>>>>
>>>> I am building several new work benches which
>>>> need a tough finish.  What finish does anyone use
>>>> for a good regulating bench?
>>>>
>>>> The recommendations for old finishes directed my
>>>> thoughts toward my projects in a remodel of the
>>>> shop.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
>>>>
>>>> Joel
>>>> Joel Jones, RPT
>>>> Madison, WI
>
>



More information about the Pianotech mailing list

This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC