I find that PVC-E or any glue that you can get off your hands with water causes the ivory to curl like a blue-hair perm. The exception is when the underside of the keytop still has most of its original glue wafer still attached. The wafer serves as a barrier, in which case PVC-E does okay. I guess if you have enough clamps and enough time, curling may not be a problem with any glue. For quick field repairs, I find that my fingers are usually the clamping devices. I often don't have the time to mash that sucker until PVC-E sets. About the time I think I've got it, I release my fingers, take a look from the key end and the darned keytop is smiling back at me. I use CA. If you're in a shop situation, concerned with color consistency as well as the glue joint, with the time to prepare both glue surfaces to fresh wood and ivory, I think the wafers might be the best way to go. Cliff Lesher Winfield, PA ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Ilvedson" <ilvey@sbcglobal.net> Subject: RE: adhesive for ivories > > PVC-E glue is the glue of choice for most of us. CA doesn't last... > > David Ilvedson, RPT > Pacifica, California > > > > ----- Original message ---------------------------------------- > From: reggaepass@aol.com > > Subject: adhesive for ivories > > >>I haven't replaced any ivory for many years. Is there a more up-to-date >>way to glue an individual ivory to the keystick than using the adhesive >>impregnated cloth that you soak in water first, then clamp in place >>with heat? > >> Thanks! > >> Alan Eder
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC