Vertical hammer return spring slings, replacement of

reggaepass@aol.com reggaepass@aol.com
Sat, 18 Feb 2006 14:02:08 -0500


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Hi Paul.
 
Thanks.
 
Alan 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul McCloud <pmc033@earthlink.net>
To: Pianotech List <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 08:38:16 -0800
Subject: RE: Vertical hammer return spring slings, replacement of


Hi, Alan.  
    I've done this job both ways, replacing the flanges, and replacing only the loops.  Of course, replacing the whole flange is going to give you new action centers.  But then you have to realign all the hammers, travel them, resurface the hammers, etc.  The job then takes about as long as replacing the loops.  What I learned (from other sources) is to wrap the thread around a dowel (I think it's 5/8") and slice across the thread.  You'll get all the loops the same size.  Take a coping saw blade and clean out the slot in the butts.  Get a bottle of accelerator with the brush in the cap, or use another brush, and paint the accelerator in the slots.  Use CA glue with a brush and put the thread into the slot and brush over the thread with the glue.  It will immediately harden.  Your brush may become clogged with glue, but you can soften it with acetone.  Some CA glue bottles have a brush in the cap! .
    You can remove the hammer rest rail, and the hammer butts to have access to do this operation, the wippens too.  Makes the job much easier than taking out the butts individually.  
    Hope this helps.
    Paul McCloud
    San Diego
 
 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: 
To: pianotech@ptg.org;caut@ptg.org
Sent: 02/18/2006 6:59:31 AM 
Subject: Vertical hammer return spring slings, replacement of


Hi All,
 
This Monday I will replace all of the hammer return spring slings on an older Yamaha U3.  Yamaha graciously provided the cord material.  Someone advised removing all of the dampers and leaving the hammers on for the operation.  However, looks to me like it would be rather tricky to get the glue and the right length of cord in the right place in the hammer flange slots with the hammers still on the rail.  My current plan is to leave the dampers, but remove all of the hammers so they may be handled individually.
 
Anybody out there worked through this to their satisfaction?  Got a solvent that works better than alcohol for loosening up the old glue?  For installing the new cords, have you used CA, hide glue, what-have-you?  
 
Any and all input is welcome, all the more so if it is before Monday morning.
 
Have a good weekend,
 
Alan Eder, RPT

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