mice in the piano

pianotune05 pianotune05@comcast.net
Thu, 16 Feb 2006 20:25:14 -0500


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Hi everyone,
I got a call today from a lady who told me that there is evidence of =
mice in the piano, or past mouse activity.  I'm going over to take a =
look at the piano tomorrow.  Actually, she's willing to pick me up. She =
drives Mercedes, an old one she tells me.  If the spelling is incorrect, =
blame my wife.:) =20

Anyway, I won't do anything with the keys and action of the bridal =
straps are missing until I learn that repair.  However, I want to =
accomodate her the best I can.  She wants it tuned, but a couple of keys =
will go down but not up.  I'm guessing there's a mouse nest in the key =
bed, however, is there something I can do in order to give that key a =
quick free up so it will go back up before I learn that bridal strap =
repair etc?   Also, I read in one of our past journals some time back =
that lavender placed inside the piano helps keep mice away.  Where do I =
purchase lavender? =20

I apologize if this is a question already exists in the archives as one =
guy on here reamed mb about a while back, but i'ts a lot easier than =
hunting down an archive. Thanks so much everyone.=20
Marshall
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Aart in America Piano Services=20
  To: Pianotech List=20
  Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 7:15 PM
  Subject: harpsichord





    Hi Blaine.

    Thank you so much for taking the time to compose this very =
informative and helpful email.
    The directions you have provided are invaluable!

    I'll let you and the other good folks on the list know how it comes =
out.

    Very best regards,

    Aart

    Aart in America Piano Services
    Hoboken, N.J. 07030
    201 406 2594
    aartinamerica@optonline.net

    On Feb 16, 2006, at 9:01 AM, Blaine Vesely wrote:


      Aart,
      I get pianotech in digest form and have minimal time to read =
everything, but your post prompted this email.  Don't even worry about =
taking inharmonicity measurements with a SAT2 since the machine does not =
go below 2.0 I think.  A harpsichord modelled after an old Baroque =
French Double (sounds like this is the kind you will be working on) will =
not have much inharmonicity.  Just use the 4th octave settings on your =
SAT to tune from B4 to the bottom of the harpsichord.  A4 will be more =
toward the treble than the bass side of the keyboard assuming a compass =
of F to F.  Probably the second A from the top of the range on the =
keyboard.  When you tune the C5 to top of the keyboard, you may have to =
insert some stretch alittle, but not much.  You can use the individual =
settings and tune the notes directly, like set machine to D5 and tune =
D5, D#5 and tune D#5.  This gets you in the ballpark pretty much.  Then =
use your ear to test if some stretch is needed.  On a French Double, you =
will have two 8 foots and a 4 foot.  I usually tune the top manual.  It =
will only operate one set of 8 foot strings.  You must make sure the top =
keyboard is coupled.  Slide the whole keyboard front or back and it will =
couple the keyboard to the jacks.  When you get the top manual tuned, =
then play the bottom manual.  Make sure you only have the second set of =
8 foot strings coupled, and not the 4 foot.  Tune unisons using the =
bottom keyboard.  Usually the 8 foot strings are the tuning pins closest =
to the player.   Then turn off the 8 foot (lever that moves the jacks) =
and turn on the 4 foot and tune.  The top 4 foot strings are hard =
sometimes to hear and you may have to uncouple the top manual and tune =
octaves with just the 4 foot, usually it is only the last several =
strings because they are so quiet and high pitched.=20

      Concerning tuning pins, if you have to replace a string, you =
really have to back out the tuning pin all the way if it has tapered =
tuning pins.  If it has what look like miniature tuning pins that are =
straight, then put coils on a dummy pin and then copy what the other =
strings look like.  I have not done any stringing with pins that have no =
becket, to if that is the case, you will just have to practice and when =
you get comfortable with it, go back to the customer.  The pins =
generally for harpsichords that are of a traditional nature are designed =
to get tighter when tapped in and thus tapered.  So take the pin out, =
put the string in (you might want to take the jacks out) and cut it =
maybe 8 inches longer than the tuning pin.  Copy the way the string is =
on the pin and it helps to maintain adequate tension when coiling the =
string on the pin, and drive the pin in the hole.  I have also been told =
that when you bring the string up to tension that you should leave it a =
little bit under pitch, maybe 50 - 100 cents for a few minutes.  Someone =
told me that it does something to the molecules in the iron strings and =
makes it stronger.  Then bring it up to full tension.  Oh yes, the low =
inharmonicity and lower pitch when stringing thing I just talked about =
applies to instruments with red, yellow brass and iron strings.  If you =
know that the instrument has steel strings or has strings that are =
wound, then there is probably more inharmonicity and will need some =
stretch eventually in tuning.  One way to tell iron from steel is that =
when you bend or kink iron, it will be easier to bend and will give you =
a definite kink.  Steel is harder to put a kink in it.

      Some fast thoughts, have fun with it.

      Blaine Vesely, Piano Technician
      Kent State University
      School of Music
      Kent, Ohio 44242
      office: 330-672-2898
      fax: 330-672-7837
      email: bvesely@kent.edu



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