Rebuild Project - suggestions?

[David Love]

Not sure what you mean.  I do insert new pins.  But only after sanding the
bridge flat and renotching which gives a much better result, looks better
too.   If you swab the holes with epoxy first you can redrill with the bit
size for the original size pins (not the original pins themselves).  There
is no need to go up in size unless, of course, the size was inadequate to
begin with--which it sometimes is.  Nothing smaller than 7's in the treble,
8's in the tenor, 9's for the bichords and 10's for the mono's is my
preference.    

More and more I am recapping the capo section as a standard procedure.
Prior to sanding the tenor and bass bridge flat, I clean off the old dag
with denatured alcohol and a rag.  Then, when you sand the bridge top, you
get down to that really nice looking aged maple.  When the whole thing is
done I shoot the bridge, cap and all, with a light coat of lacquer and just
leave the wood to show--no dag, no filing pins flat.  Looks great, works
great.   

David Love
davidlovepianos@comcast.net 

-----Original Message-----
From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Greg Newell
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 7:44 AM
To: Pianotech
Subject: RE: Rebuild Project - suggestions?

David,
         One question. Why? New pins accomplish the same thing with a lot 
less hassle and they look better. Pulling old pins never seems to be a 
problem around here. They generally come out quite easily without chipping 
the cap at all. When the occasional one is tight and comes out badly I will 
effect the repair as you've described but still with a new pin which then 
provides a new pin surface for the string to ride against.

Greg Newell


At 10:57 PM 10/12/2005, you wrote:
>I prefer to pull the old pins, if you don't need to recap then sand the
>bridge flat (to the bottom of the old grooves), renotch, paint on a layer
of
>very low viscosity epoxy and swab the old holes at the same time.  When
>cured, sand the top down flat again to smooth out the epoxy coating,
redrill
>the old holes using the appropriate drill for the original size pin (the
>epoxy coating allows you to do this without chipping out the cap), renotch
>and repin securing the pins with epoxy or CA, your choice.  Clean up the
>agraffes and capo bar and those terminations really terminate.
>
>David Love
>davidlovepianos@comcast.net
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On
Behalf
>Of Greg Newell
>Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2005 7:46 PM
>To: Pianotech
>Subject: Re: Rebuild Project - suggestions?
>
>
>Why?
>Well, first because you remove the string cut in the side of the old pin by
>replacing it and second you get a tighter fit between the bridge and the
>pin. Try it , I'm sure you'll like the results.
>
>Greg Newell
>
>
>
>At 07:55 PM 10/12/2005, you wrote:
> >Ben, if it's a grand, please do re-string it, and consider replacing
> >the
> >block...and resizing the bridge pins (Thanks Greg). Why?
> >
> >I know of a Howard Grand that is now at Sama getting a fresh coat of
> >lacquer, and the work that was done to it before I started servicing it
> >was 1st rate. The person who did the work did not refinish it, probably
at
> >the request of the previous owner, because I know for a fact their funds
> >were limited. This was a teacher's piano, and it has a warm, yet powerful
> >sound for a little guy.
> >
> >Just do it,
> >
> >-Phil
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
>
>Greg Newell
>Greg's piano Forté
>mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
>
>_______________________________________________
>pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives

Greg Newell
Greg's piano Forté
mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net 

_______________________________________________
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