Soundboard cracks under long bridge

[Greg Newell]

Naturally this is what I would have done if the crack did not meander as it 
does. No where near a straight line.



At 08:32 PM 3/24/2005, you wrote:
>Why not just do a Spurlock-type shim job right up to both sides of the
>bridge? If there is a small area where the bridge is not glued to the panel,
>put some glue in there and block up the panel from behind and go bar on
>top - or use a rib gluing boat before shimming (but instead of gluing on a
>rib you will be gluing on the bridge).
>
>Make sense?
>
>Terry Farrell
>
>
> > Dear list members,
> >          I am faced with a dilemma and would appreciate your advice once
> > again. I am refinishing a 61" Howard grand and re-stringing with a new
> > block. After strings were removed and the piano sat in the shop for a time
> > a soundboard crack appeared which migrates under a crook in the long
> > bridge. This could have already been there but not as prominent as it is
> > now. I'd like to  try and repair this but I question how to go about it.
> > I've tried removing the buttons and screws that attach the long bridge to
> > the soundboard hoping that the glue would be loose enough to crack it free
> > and pivot it out of the way in order to make the repair. (There's one
>screw
> > way high up in the treble that I just can't get at for love nor money.)
> > There is not enough money to replace the board and bridges but it seems
> > that the crack will need to be addressed before it goes out. Also, in one
> > area of the crack that goes beneath the long bridge the soundboard is
> > disconnected from the bridge too, naturally. :-( Any advice?
> >
> > Greg Newell
>
>
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Greg Newell
Greg's piano Forté
mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net