lacquering technique, was Evidence of overlacquered hammers

[Richard Brekne]

Hi Micheal

I subscribe to Franz Mohrs line of thinking here. He adds a drop or two 
to the striking point. only.  Its the minimum intrusive route, easily 
sanded away, easily needled at need afterwards. Course this is if you 
are dealing with reasonably tensioned hammers to begin with.  If you 
have a set of mushballs in front of you, then you need to get more into 
it.  In the end tho, you will want to wind up with a situation  where 
most of the felt on each layer is pretty much evenly lacquered if you 
are going to avoid the uneven wear syndrom Conrad pictured.  If you have 
to soak... heaven forbid... :)... then run some straight thinner in just 
after applying each coat so as to drive the hardning agent into the 
deeper layers.  You are looking to simulate that increasing hardness 
with depth aspect that is so nicely effected by hammers that are 
tensioned appropriately to begin with.  That may seem to conflict with 
the drop or two on top I started with above.....but remember that is for 
hammers that are already under sufficient tension and just need a little 
zing--- usually confined to a few hammers on top.

Dats how I sees it anyways... :)

Cheers
RicB

Michael Spalding wrote:

>Ric wrote:
>
>  
>
>>. One is forced ofte times to resort to lacq in the 
>>highest treble and sometimes in the bottom 3-5 notes.... 
>>    
>>
>
>This thread began with Conrad's photo of a hammer that was lacquered on the
>shoulders but not the strike point, and had worn into a double-lobed
>configuration.  Obviously lacquered incorrectly, regardless of hammer type.
>
>My question is, if one is faced with a set of new Ronsen Wurzens which need
>a little more guts in the 6th and 7th octave even after filing and ironing,
>what is the appropriate way to lacquer?
>
>thanks
>
>Mike
>
>
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