Upright pinblock removal jig

[gordon stelter]

--- michael campi <campimichael@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Gordon,
> The problem as I see it is in mounting. My first
> inclination was to remove 
> the sides of the piano and mount the jig with a
> brackett directly to the 
> piano, 

Stiff, but a lot of time wasted. And its pretty tough
to get an upright's sides back on perfectly once
removed. What I suggest are 2 tubes ( or 3 if you're
fanatical ) going acros the top of the pianpo, with a
couple of heavy steel plates hanging down over the
sides about 8  inches. These could be segments of
large angle iron ( 8" x 8" x 1/2" thick ) affixed to
the tubes with U-bolts,  with the horizontal portion
of the angle pointing outward from the piano flush
wity the tubes' bottom. Then a couple of 3/4" holes
could be drilled through the plate overhang, and large
bolts run through it to a caul which would protect the
piano sides as they are squeezed. A nut welded on the
inboard side of each hole would allow the bolts to be
turned and push on the caul. The U-bolts would allow
the plates to be adjusted for different width pianos,
but if they allowed the plates to slide, bolts right
through the plates and tubes could be used.
     Of course, you would want bolt # 1, the tightest,
to impinge on the side where there is framing beneath.
This would do the actual clamping. The other bolt
would just press the caul snug against the side where
it sticks out from the back. Too mucj pressure here
would crack the side, unless a temporary beam were
placed between the sides to support the pressure.
     Now that you have your tracks tightly clamped
across the top of the piano, you are tready to go.
I'd have to see the saw before getting any ideas on
how to mount and move it, but I envision a carriage
that slides on the tubes, but also has two smaller
slides that allow the saw to be plunged.
    Enough for today. My brain is out of steam.
    Thump




		
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