If reveneering the entire lid is not an option, try
piecing in veneer by laying a new piece of the same
species over the crack, securing it with piuns and/or
tape, cutting through both it and the original veneer
with an Exacto knife ona good straight edge. Then
remove the unwanted portion of the original veneer and
glue the new piece in. Leave the finish on the
original veneer ( to resist glue spill ) until after
the new piece is in place. Then strip the lid and sand
( this will help hide the joint ) and finsih the
whole.
Thump
--- Farrell <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
> Nothing wrong with wood glue. I glue my soundboard
> panel edge-joints with
> Original Tightbond. But those joints are all hand
> planed flat and square and
> meet each other perfectly. A crack will be irregular
> to some degree. There
> are often splinters on the surfaces of the crack.
> Bottom line - you are
> unlikely to have two perfectly mated pieces. The
> wood may have warped a bit
> also. I would be more comfortable with a gap-filling
> adhesive (like epoxy).
> However, if you have good mating and proper clamps,
> it is likely that wood
> glue would work. It's just not where my comfort
> would lie in a situation
> like that.
>
> Terry Farrell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "William R. Monroe" <A440WRMPiano@tm.net>
> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2004 8:17 PM
> Subject: Re: Cracked Lid
>
>
> > Terry,
> >
> > Just curious: why the epoxy repair vs. repairing
> with wood glue?
> >
> > William R. Monroe
> > Madison, WI
> > Assoc.
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
> > To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2004 1:12 PM
> > Subject: Re: Cracked Lid
> >
> >
> > > Good: West System 2-step wet-out epoxy repair
> prodedure.
> > >
> > > Better: West System 2-step wet-out epoxy repair
> prodedure plus new
> > veneers.
> > >
> > > Best: Replace lid.
> > >
> > > Terry Farrell
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Bob Hull" <hullfam5@yahoo.com>
> > > To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > > Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2004 11:54 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Cracked Lid
> > >
> > >
> > > > Along the same line, I have a customer with an
> antique
> > > > grand (Erard) about 8', and the lid is cracked
> > > > lengthwise down the middle. Before anything
> can be
> > > > done, including tuning, repair of the lid
> needs to
> > > > take place because it may split completely if
> put up
> > > > on a stick.
> > > >
> > > > I'm trying to decide how to proceed.
> > > >
> > > > Bob Hull
> > > >
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: "James Grebe" <pianoman@accessus.net>
> > > > > To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > > > > Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2004 7:47 AM
> > > > > Subject: Re: Cracked Lid
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > On long grands where the lid has been kept
> mostly
> > > > > in the up position you
> > > > > can
> > > > > > imagine the stress, over the years it put
> on the
> > > > > glue joints on the long
> > > > > > core panels glued together for the lid
> with only
> > > > > support on one end and
> > > > > the
> > > > > > other just kind of hanging out there. It
> is a
> > > > > wonder that we do not seem
> > > > > > more of this in anything over 6'. I do
> not know
> > > > > if they used any special
> > > > > > types of joint between the boards or if
> they were
> > > > > all just edge glued.
> > > > > Any
> > > > > > one tore one apart to see.?
> > > > > > Jim
> > > > > >
> > > > > > James Grebe
> > > > > > Piano-Forte Tuning & Repair
> > > > > > Creator of Handsome Hardwood Caster Cups
> > > > > > (314) 608-4137
> > > > > > WWW.JamesGrebe.com
> > > > > > 1526 Raspberry Lane
> > > > > > Arnold, MO 63010
> > > > > > BECOME WHAT YOU BELIEVE!
> > > > > > pianoman@accessus.net
> > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > > From: "Paul Chick (Earthlink)"
> > > > > <tune4@earthlink.net>
> > > > > > To: "Pianotech@Ptg.Org"
> <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2004 7:05 PM
> > > > > > Subject: Cracked Lid
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > List readers:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I inspected a recently refinished
> mahogany
> > > > > veneered lid for a 1901
> > > > > > > Steinway
> > > > > > > Grand that is showing cracks through the
> finish
> > > > > telegraphed from the
> > > > > > > joints
> > > > > > > of the core material. There doesn't
> appear to
> > > > > be any cross banding
> > > > > > > between
> > > > > > > the core-which looks like oak-and the
> face
> > > > > veneer. The cracks are from
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > hinge end and show on both sides of the
> lid.
> > > > > The shop is a first rate
> > > > > > > refinishing facility with very talented
> staff.
> > > > > No one hs ever seen this
> > > > > > > problem before, and no one remembers
> seeing the
> > > > > cracks in the lid before
> > > > > > > refinishing. The stripping process does
> not use
> > > > > waterbased strippers or
> > > > > > > rinses. The humidity during stripping
> and
> > > > > finishing was close to 60%,
> > > > > now
> > > > > > > it's about 40%. Has anyone seen this in
> other
> > > > > lids/pieces from that era?
> > > > > > > I'd
> > > > > > > appreciate any thoughts or experiences.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Paul C
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> _______________________________________________
> > > > > > > pianotech list info:
> > > > >
> https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> _______________________________________________
> > > > > > pianotech list info:
> > > > >
> https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> _______________________________________________
> > > > > pianotech list info:
> > > > >
> https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > __________________________________
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