Cracked Lid

[Farrell]

Nothing wrong with wood glue. I glue my soundboard panel edge-joints with
Original Tightbond. But those joints are all hand planed flat and square and
meet each other perfectly. A crack will be irregular to some degree. There
are often splinters on the surfaces of the crack. Bottom line - you are
unlikely to have two perfectly mated pieces. The wood may have warped a bit
also. I would be more comfortable with a gap-filling adhesive (like epoxy).
However, if you have good mating and proper clamps, it is likely that wood
glue would work. It's just not where my comfort would lie in a situation
like that.

Terry Farrell

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "William R. Monroe" <A440WRMPiano@tm.net>
To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2004 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: Cracked Lid


> Terry,
>
> Just curious:  why the epoxy repair vs. repairing with wood glue?
>
> William R. Monroe
> Madison, WI
> Assoc.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2004 1:12 PM
> Subject: Re: Cracked Lid
>
>
> > Good: West System 2-step wet-out epoxy repair prodedure.
> >
> > Better: West System 2-step wet-out epoxy repair prodedure plus new
> veneers.
> >
> > Best: Replace lid.
> >
> > Terry Farrell
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Bob Hull" <hullfam5@yahoo.com>
> > To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2004 11:54 AM
> > Subject: Re: Cracked Lid
> >
> >
> > > Along the same line, I have a customer with an antique
> > > grand (Erard) about 8', and the lid is cracked
> > > lengthwise down the middle.   Before anything can be
> > > done, including tuning, repair of the lid needs to
> > > take place because it may split completely if put up
> > > on a stick.
> > >
> > > I'm trying to decide how to proceed.
> > >
> > > Bob Hull
> > >
> > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > From: "James Grebe" <pianoman@accessus.net>
> > > > To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > > > Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2004 7:47 AM
> > > > Subject: Re: Cracked Lid
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > On long grands where the lid has been kept mostly
> > > > in the up position you
> > > > can
> > > > > imagine the stress, over the years it put on the
> > > > glue joints on the long
> > > > > core panels glued together for the lid with only
> > > > support on one end and
> > > > the
> > > > > other just kind of hanging out there.  It is a
> > > > wonder that we do not seem
> > > > > more of this in anything over 6'.  I do not know
> > > > if they used any special
> > > > > types of joint between the boards or if they were
> > > > all just edge glued.
> > > > Any
> > > > > one tore one apart to see.?
> > > > > Jim
> > > > >
> > > > > James Grebe
> > > > > Piano-Forte Tuning & Repair
> > > > > Creator of Handsome Hardwood Caster Cups
> > > > > (314) 608-4137
> > > > > WWW.JamesGrebe.com
> > > > > 1526 Raspberry Lane
> > > > > Arnold, MO 63010
> > > > > BECOME WHAT YOU BELIEVE!
> > > > > pianoman@accessus.net
> > > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > > From: "Paul Chick (Earthlink)"
> > > > <tune4@earthlink.net>
> > > > > To: "Pianotech@Ptg.Org" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > > > > Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2004 7:05 PM
> > > > > Subject: Cracked Lid
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > List readers:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I inspected a recently refinished mahogany
> > > > veneered lid for a 1901
> > > > > > Steinway
> > > > > > Grand that is showing cracks through the finish
> > > > telegraphed from the
> > > > > > joints
> > > > > > of the core material.  There doesn't appear to
> > > > be any cross banding
> > > > > > between
> > > > > > the core-which looks like oak-and the face
> > > > veneer.  The cracks are from
> > > > > > the
> > > > > > hinge end and show on both sides of the lid.
> > > > The shop is a first rate
> > > > > > refinishing facility with very talented staff.
> > > > No one hs ever seen this
> > > > > > problem before, and no one remembers seeing the
> > > > cracks in the lid before
> > > > > > refinishing.  The stripping process does not use
> > > > waterbased strippers or
> > > > > > rinses. The humidity during stripping and
> > > > finishing was close to 60%,
> > > > now
> > > > > > it's about 40%. Has anyone seen this in other
> > > > lids/pieces from that era?
> > > > > > I'd
> > > > > > appreciate any thoughts or experiences.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Paul C
> > > > > >
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