Extracting glued bridge pins

[Horace Greeley]

Hi, Dale,

That's how I came to use the method...had a #)!@%*( of a time with a pretty
thoroughly epoxied bridge until a conversation with my good friend, John
Walker, helped clear my thinking.  The "trick", if there is one, seems to
be to not use too hot an iron and to set it up so that you can control the
heat - thus, I use an in-line lamp dimmer on a 25-watt iron (that is used
for nothing else).

I haven't yet quite made up my mind about use of epoxy and/or CA for bridges
yet.  I've been playing around with several different approaches and am
presently thinking that, once again, these things become a question of what
techniques am I familiar and sufficiently comfortable with to use in any
given situation..that is, what might be the "perfect" solution in one case
just might be a disaster in another.  As in so much else, YMMV.

Best.

Horace

Quoting Erwinspiano@aol.com:

>
> David
>     The difficulty you are having is why I don't really like  epoxy
> repair
> for this. Yes, I do it on occasion. However I'll have to try  Horace's
> suggestion next time I'm doing an entire bridge. The last time it took
> forever to get
> em out.
>     Dale
>
>
>
> Any  suggestions for cleanly removing bridge pins that have been glued
> with
> either CA or epoxy, without damaging the bridge?  I'm trying to clean  up
> the notching in the upper treble of a Steinway L.  I can't  remember if
> heat
> (soldering iron, for example) would affect either glue,  or create
> additional problems.
>
> Thanks -
>
> David  Skolnik
>
>
>
>