another dampp-chaser thought/question

[Avery Todd]

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Robin,

Are you sure it isn't the old Samick "flaking" problem with the center pins?
Just wondering.

Avery

At 09:38 PM 10/13/04, you wrote:
>Thanks Robin,
>I've treated a few with protek to good effect so far...  I thinking of 
>doing the whole tray and I'll have to try this method.  The humidity has 
>been high here, consistently in the 60s.  That is when the problem showed 
>up so I presumed... ;-)
>
>Thanks,
>Andrew
>At 02:38 AM 10/13/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>>This is slightly off topic here.But  the Samick dampers sticking problem 
>>is not caused by humidity.It is caused by friction heating up a chemical 
>>in the felt that then causes the felt to expand and the flange to 
>>stick.The best cure is 50/50 alcohol and water treatment over night 
>>followed by  re-pinning and reaming any sluggish 
>>flanges.                  Robin Olson RPT
>>
>>-------------- Original message --------------
>> > Hi John,
>> > Photographing the install takes lots of light considering that you want a
>> > picture of black parts on black beams. In my case it is worse because I
>> > just put an !*#%&~undercover under my wife's piano. I'm going to 
>> invest in
>> > a lot of black tacks for my next undercover job. Has anyone tried 
>> drilling
>> > ventilation holes between the board behind the damper tray and the
>> > conditioned cavity between the beams? I've been very tempted while easing
>> > damper flanges, Wurlitzer by Samick strikes again.
>> >
>> > I think the only reason to do an under the beams installation is when 
>> there
>> > is not enough room between the beams to fit the humidifier. I figure to
>> > keep about 3/8" between the baffle and the ribs of the soundboard. On 
>> some
>> > pianos th! at is above the beams and on some that is between the beams. I
>> > don't let the bars rest on the beams as that is a potential source of
>> > buzzing. Cut them short if you need to.
>> >
>> > The electrical cords come folded and tied when you get them. Just pull 
>> out
>> > enough to reach and then tighten the twist tie. I then put a wire clip
>> > close to this coil and fasten to the side of a beam. Yes they say that
>> > those can form something like resistance coils when you're welding but 
>> the
>> > wattage is much lower, I don't think it's and issue with these cords. So
>> > far I've run the cords over the beams. If anything looks too close (like
>> > ribs) I re-route to avoid and use the clips to secure the wires from the
>> > sides of the beams.
>> >
>> > Wouldn't unisons going out be more of a rendering issue? Perhaps not 
>> if it
>> > was dry. You will enjoy the stability that comes when this system is kept
>> > r! unning.
>> >
>> > Good luck,
>> > Andrew
>> >
>> >
>> > At 08:17 PM 10/11/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>> > >Hi,
>> > >
>> > >I did my first dampp-chaser installation on Sat. I noticed today that 
>> the
>> > >piano's unisons were more off-tune compared to Sat. than they were on 
>> Sat.
>> > >compared to when I tuned it 1-1/2 months ago. Looks like it's doing
>> > >something :)
>> > >
>> > >In any case, I was a bit uncertain about something. The instructions 
>> said
>> > >to do an under-the-beams installation if there wasn't enough 
>> clearance for
>> > >the humidifier baffle. But it didn't say what enough clearance was, so I
>> > >presumed this meant "if it doesn't fit". There is between 1/4"-1/8"
>> > >clearance above the baffle. Is this enough?
>> > >
>> > >I was also curious if anyone was willing to post a picture of their
>> > >techniques to hide the extra cords! .
>> > >
>> > >Thanks.
>> > >
>> > >- John Silva, P.T. sans R
>> > >
>> > >_______________________________________________
>> > >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives

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