grand damper felt removal

Joe Garrett joegarrett@earthlink.net
Sun, 10 Oct 2004 12:11:43 -0700


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I forgot to say that on regular olde grand dampers, I have "system", if =
you will, that consists of a strip of "masonite" w/holes drilled for the =
wires. This strip is about 3 1/2" wide and 72" long. On either end of =
the strip are slots that will accomodate, (freely), 1/4x20 bolts. Out of =
old piano case parts, (I think they are old cheek blocks. But, don't =
quote me on that. It's been many years since I built this =
"thingamajig"!<G>) On top of the "blocks" is another piece of wood, at =
right angles, that is a few inches beyond the vertical block(s). This =
horizontal has a carriage bolt imbedded in it, w/the threads protruding =
upward. The "strip" slot goes over the bolt and is adjustable with wing =
nuts, to accomodate the varying widths of grands. The "blocks were sawn, =
so that there is an angle left out and a "ledge" that sits on the rim of =
the piano. Another, (longer), 1/4x20 bolt w/wing nut is anchored in the =
outside piece and travels through, (freely), the inner piece, which is =
hinged with olde piano hinges. This whole thingamajig clamps on to the =
sides of the piano. This puts the "strip" above the strings, etc. about =
6"-8". Once in place, I have a way to keep the heads in order. Once all =
the dampers have be removed from the piano and placed in the =
Thingamajig, I remove it from the piano and move it to a work bench. =
There I have two short 2x4's that I clamp to the Thingamajig, which are =
then clamped to the work bench top. I bend the "strip" in an upward =
"crown" to keep the wires off of the bench top.
The first thing I do to these dampers, is stamp the number on the side, =
of each one, w/machinists number stamps. That way, if, in the frenzy of =
taking off the felt, sanding, finishing, etc., the order is out of =
whack, I'm able to put them back in the proper order.
The next thing is removing the felt. I have two water color dual cups =
that are intended to clip on an artist's pallet board. These will clip =
onto the 1/4" thin Masonite and can be slid along either edge, as I =
progress in the soaking off of the felt. I use Wallpaper remover. (It =
works faster if it is heated.<G>) Two heads at a time will fit nicely =
into the cups. While each pair is soaking, I attend to other things in =
the shop. About every 20 minutes, I remove the felt, squeeze the excess =
Wall Paper Remover back into the cups & use the olde damper felt to =
"scrub" the heads nice and clean. Then throw away the olde felt and =
continue on with the system. Occasionally, some minor scraping will be =
needed to pry off some really tenacious glue, but for the most part this =
is a low effort thing.=20
Once all the felt is removed, I let the heads dry for a day or so. (the =
wood does get really saturated in this process)
Oh, one thing that I should stress: Take all the measurements of the =
original felt; select the appropriate replacement felt making note of =
any deviations, from the original damper configuration, you may wish to =
do. Do this BEFORE you start the removal process! DAMHIK!
Once the dampers are "like new", and you've done all of the other Back =
Action renovating, the whole Thingamajig is put back on the piano, ready =
for arduous task of installing/regulating, etc.
Because there is quite a bit of time between removing the dampers and =
putting them back in, I like to "seal" the renovated dampers, on the =
Thingamajig, with seran wrap/tape. This keeps them pristine until =
needed.
I hope this will give a few of you some ideas in how to deal with all of =
those danged dampers!<G>
Best Regards,
Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
Captain, Tool Police
Squares R I
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