Knabe Back action

Joe Garrett joegarrett@earthlink.net
Sat, 2 Oct 2004 23:14:10 -0700


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Terry said: "Rebuilding an old (1900) Knabe grand backaction. The darn =
flanges are =3D
glued and screwed to the rail! I was surprised to find no sandpaper on =
=3D
the rail. I'll be doing some repining, etc. Regarding the flanges glued =
=3D
to the rail, what have folks found to be a good procedure to get this =
=3D
situation back up to snuff?

Also, what amount of friction is recommended for the backaction flanges =
=3D
and the thingee that has the sostenuto activator thingee on it (what are =
=3D
the proper terms...?).

Thanks.

Terry,
I've found the following to work rather well: While the flanges are =
still attached to the rail, centerpunch and drill for the appropriate =
flange screws. Then remove the flanges. I prefer to put some moisture, =
(just a little), and heat to them. They'll pop off fairly well with a =
little coaxing with a chisel. Clean up the rail and add sandpaper strips =
w/appropriate holes punched. I like to attach the sandpaper with cold =
hide glue as it gives you a sufficient amount of time to get everything =
lined up and it doesn't leave lumps/bubbles in the sandpaper. (less =
traveling needed, but there will be some.)
BTW, the thingee you are wondering about terminology-wise, is called the =
Top Flange.<G> I like to use the specs. from the olde Steinway manual. =
Without looking, I recall the Top Flange is 1-3 grams and the Lever is =
3-5 grams. Hope that helps.
Best Regards,
Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
Captain, Tool Police
Squares R I
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