Glue; bridge pins/Terry

[Michael Spalding]

Joe,

Great procedure and clear explanation.  I like the absence of epoxy mess on
the bridge cap.  Thanks, I'll add this to my toolbox of possible
procedures.  I'd be interested in knowing approximately how much time it
takes?

Terry:  

More extensive than Joe's method, and less than re-capping, is the Bill
Spurlock epoxy treatment.  Pull old pins, plane or sand the cap just to the
bottom the the string grooves, re-notch the bridge, insert new pins with
West epoxy (pre-heat the bridge with heat gun/lamps), brushing epoxy over
the cap and notches.  DAG when dry.  Total time for both bridges
approximately 12 hours.  There's a Journal reprint somewhere that details
it.

Less time and care than Joe's method, usually reserved for verticals where
the results won't be on display:  Tap existing pins down, preheat the
bridge with heat gun/lamp, brush on West epoxy until the cracks stop
absorbing it, DAG when dry.  

In general, I prefer epoxy over CA if there is any gap at all.

Mike

> [Original Message]
> From: Joe Garrett <joegarrett@earthlink.net>
> To: pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org>; pianolover 88
<pianolover88@hotmail.com>
> Date: 10/1/2004 10:50:21 PM
> Subject: Re: Glue; bridge pins/Terry
>
> Terry,
> The large heavy duty soldering iron is used to heat the bridge pins. I use
> regular clear epoxy that I get from the local hobby store. (It's more apt
to
> be fresh.) It's clear and usually says: "30 minute epoxy" or something
like
> that. No, it don't set up that fast.<G> It will give you about 15-20
minutes
> per batch, of working time. I mix in small batches, because you don't need
> large quantities. 1st, get the soldering iron hot. While it's heating up,
I
> like to take a #3 nail set and seat all the bridge pins in their intended
> position. (look out for too deep holes!) I have a special stand for the
> soldering iron, so it doesn't fall off and burn something important, (like
> the soundboard!)(Don't ask!<G>) Then mix up a batch of epoxy, (a dollar
size
> amount is about as big as you want at a time.) Put the soldering iron on a
> bridge pin, so you can apply the epoxy to the side of the pin opposite
from
> the side the string touches. One drop on the tip of a round/wood cocktail
> toothpick is applied to the side of the pin. When you see the stuff start
to
> wick down the pin, into the cap, IMMEDIATELY take the soldering iron off
of
> that pin and put it on the next one. Once you do this a bit, you'll get a
> rhythm going. Trick is, don't apply too much epoxy, so your cleanup is
less
> of a chore. Do not let the epoxy get too hot. Bubbling is too hot. Smoke
is
> definately too hot!!! The reason for the big bertha soldering iron, is
that
> it will hold enough heat all the time. This type of soldering iron is
> usually found in the olde fashioned hardware stores, in the plumbing
> section. But then again, maybe not. I've forgotten what the wattage is,
but
> it's not like the wimpy little soldering guns for electronics, etc. They
> will not work for this operation. Well, that's pretty much it. I clean up
> with a dry rag and brass wire brush, (suede brush). Let it all set up for
at
> least 24 hours. then if some more clean up is necessary, I use dental
tools
> to get into the nooks and crannies. Do not put Dag on the bridge for at
> least 72 hours. It has alcohol in it. Since alcohol is  solvent to clean
up
> epoxy, it will deteriorate the strength of the epoxy, if it hasn't
reached a
> full cure. (another, Don't Ask!<G>) I hope that is clear. If not, feel
free
> to ask for clarification. Oh, just thought of something else: when the
epoxy
> doesn't seem to wick very well, it's time for a fresh batch. I will
usually
> mix about 5-8 batches for an entire piano....so, pay attention to how it
> wicks!
> Best Regards,
> Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
> Captain, Tool Police
> Squares R I
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "pianolover 88" <pianolover88@hotmail.com>
> To: <joegarrett@earthlink.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 01, 2004 8:08 PM
> Subject: Re: Glue; bridge pins/Terry
>
>
> > <My preferred method is fairly old, but has proven good. Epoxy and Heavy
> > Duty Soldering Iron. It's time consuming, but works well.>
> >
> >
> > Interesting. What is the soldering iron used for, and what kind of epoxy
> do
> > you use? Thanks!
> >
> > Terry Peterson
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----Original Message Follows----
> > From: &quot;Joe Garrett&quot; &lt;joegarrett@earthlink.net&gt;
> > Reply-To: Pianotech &lt;pianotech@ptg.org&gt;
> > To: &quot;pianotech&quot; &lt;pianotech@ptg.org&gt;
> > Subject: Re: Glue; bridge pins/Terry
> > Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2004 18:47:06 -0700
> >
> > Terry,
> > My preferred method is fairly old, but has proven good. Epoxy and Heavy
> Duty
> > Soldering Iron. It's time consuming, but works well.
> > Best Regards,
> > Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
> > Captain, Tool Police
> > Squares R I
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
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>
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