Glassing pinblocks

[David Love]

Jon:

That's a nice simple system that I'll have to try.  My method has been to
first fit the block with the plate upside down.  Once you have a good fit,
from underneath draw a couple of circles with a pencil through a couple of
screw holes outlining the holes at either end of the plate directly on the
block.  Then flip the plate and apply the glassing material to the flange
and squeeze it into place with some clamps.  When the circles that you've
drawn line up in the screw holes, you're back at the alignment you started
with before you flipped the plate.  Pull the clamps tight and then drill
the screw holes pulling the block up tight to the flange and the web. 
Clean up the squeeze out and let it cure.  I like your method too.  

In response to Dale's comment, I do like to glass the block for, among
other things, the very reason mentioned in Jon's post.  Sometimes you get
some drift on the block when the screws go in and what was a nice fit is
not quite as nice.  Though a 100% fit to the flange may be more than is
necessary, it certainly doesn't hurt.  The amount of time involved in this
final step is minimal compared with the problems that can arise from a
poorly fit block.  As a safety measure, and for my own peace of mind, I
think it's well worth the minimal trouble.  

David Love
davidlovepianos@earthlink.net


----- Original Message ----- 
From: Jon Page 
To: pianotech@ptg.org
Sent: 6/29/2004 4:27:35 PM 
Subject: Glassing pinblocks


>I prefer not to have to squeeze out the excess
with a lot of clamp pressure.

To get the best fit with epoxy seating is to first hand fit the
block
to the flange and then install the screws. Then remove the pin block
and apply a thin bead of Marine-tex to the edge and reinstall the block
with every other screw. Let cure. This will insure a tight fit.

When installing the screws after fitting, the block might not be as 
firm
to the flange as you'd like. The epoxy makes up for any drift which
might
have occurred. With the screws installed the block is locked and 
clamped
in place, any fill will squeeze out. 

During the initial screw drilling and installation, one might break :-(
Don't worry. You'll be removing the block to apply epoxy, fix it then,
either with an EZ-Out or drill around it and plug with a pin block plug
to redrill. I use a large tapered bit for wood screws.

Regards,

Jon Page, piano technician
Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
mailto:jonpage@comcast.net
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