Replacing Upright Pinblocks (was Re: Old uprights)

[Farrell]

David Nereson wrote:
"I guess any chewed-up wood or gaps will be filled by the glue you use when
it's re-assembled, but the surface on which the new block is glued has to
remain relatively undamaged."

I like the chainsaw idea for the pinblock removal. I used to trim trees
professionally - now why didn't I think of that? However, you are correct
that it will leave a "chewed up" set of backposts and spacers. That is one
of the fabulous qualities of West System type epoxy. The more chewed up your
surface is, the better it adheres! So no worry about that at all. In fact,
if your surface is smooth, it is recommended that you rough it up with very
coarse sandpaper.

Terry Farrell

www.farrellpiano.com

> > Drilling a few hundred holes?  I'm curious about this method.  Has it
been
> > described in the Journal?
>
>     Andre Bolduc demonstrated an L-shaped jig that screwed or clamped to
the
> face of the old pinblock, I believe, then hung down the top of the block
> (piano lying on its back).  The part that hangs down has a guide for a big
> foot-long, half-inch (or so) diameter drill bit.  You start at one end and
> drill holes the depth of the pinblock (actually, height of the pinblock
when
> the piano is standing up in normal position) as close together as you can.
> The drill stop or gauge or piece of masking tape around the bit is set for
> that depth (actually height, that is, the pinblock's vertical dimension
when
> piano is upright).  Divide the width of the piano by the diameter of the
bit
> and that's approximately how many holes you have to drill.  Now there are
> little bits of wood still between all the holes, since you can't drill
holes
> precisely next to each other or the drill bit will "find" or "seek" the
> adjacent hole and not go straight.  You've got all these holes OOOOOOOO
but
> you have to remove the wood between the 'O' s -- the hour-glass shaped
> remaining walls between the holes.  I think he used a bil ol' chisel and a
> mallet.  And I mean a 3-inch wide wide one and a big mallet.
>     Once he chopped out the block, I think the surface was smoothed with a
> router, then prepared for the new pinblock.
>     Yes, it was described in the Journal, but I don't know which issue.
>     Terry Farrel's method of renting a big circular saw, or maybe even
using
> a chain saw, seems easier.  A tech from our chapter once demonstrated
> removing a Steinway grand pinblock using an electric chain saw with a
> pre-set-up "track," or guide, attached to the stretcher.  But that's where
> the block was doweled or glued to the stretcher.  In an upright, for
> removing the sides or pinblock with a chain saw, you'd need some way to
keep
> the blade exactly vertical, or horizontal, depending on your set-up, so it
> wouldn't chew up the sides or the back assembly too much.  I guess any
> chewed-up wood or gaps will be filled by the glue you use when it's
> re-assembled, but the surface on which the new block is glued has to
remain
> relatively undamaged.
> OR:
>     If you're rebuilding the whole piano, including refinishing,
re-guilding
> the plate, new block, new board, new everything else, then just leave the
> old assembly in the driveway or back yard for several months, and after
it's
> been alternately rained on and baked in the sun several times, it'll just
> knock apart with a small sledge hammer.    ;-)
>     --David Nereson, RPT
>
>
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