Lock tite- wood epoxy

[Farrell]

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Not contrary at all! Which is why I said "...the thick epoxy might work =
just fine...", and apparently did work just fine, and pointed out to =
"...be sure to moosh the epoxy into the wood a bit..." which, of course =
you did!  ;-)=20

Also, for very small quantities of West System type epoxy use, I save =
the plastic cleaned used yogurt cups and use my gram scale to measure =
out the resin and hardener - works real easy and accurately.

Terry Farrell
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Erwinspiano@aol.com=20
  To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
  Sent: Monday, July 12, 2004 10:39 AM
  Subject: Re: Lock tite- wood epoxy


      Dear Contrarian Brother
    I was merely suggesting a  type of epoxy for a very small job so =
that I don't waste the west sytems stuff for 4 dabs of epoxy. Also by =
inserting the screws in this repair aformentioned it squishes it into =
the wood. If I have a failure I'll be the first to tattle on myself. =
Thes screws can be tihgtend further after complete dryin as well so I'm =
very pleased with the repair
    However your point is well taken & when I need epoxy advice You da =
man Terry
     Dale Erwin
    At the risk of sounding like I am of the opinion that there is only =
one type of epoxy worthy of use on this planet, I offer the following =
for your consideration.

    From my experience, the source of failure with epoxies in general, =
when they occur, is between the epoxy and the substrate being bonded - =
in a repair like a rim, it would be the epoxy-to-wood joint that can be =
of concern. An epoxy bond is a mechanical bond: the epoxy must penetrate =
the wood sufficiently so that after it hardens it will not work loose. =
You've all heard/seen/experienced an auto-body repair with "Bondo" that =
separates from the metal after some time. This is because a proper =
mechanical bond was not made between the Bondo (yes, I know, Bondo is a =
polyurethane-based product - but the analogy works) and the metal =
substrate. The same can happen with the epoxy-to-wood joint.

    A thick, putty-like epoxy, simply does not penetrate a wooden =
surface well on its own.=20

    Now in a low-stress joint like filling a divot in a piece of wood, =
the thick epoxy might work just fine. But be sure to moosh the epoxy =
into the wood a bit to be sure it will interlock with the surface fibers =
of the wood.

    In a high-stress joint, an epoxy like West System with its various =
fillers really shines. The basic principal here is to wet wood surfaces =
down with an unthickened epoxy - you can watch as the epoxy soaks into =
the wood - if it soaks in fast, you may want to apply unthickened epoxy =
again - with end grain you will want many applications of unthickened =
epoxy until it doesn't take any more. Then you add your filler of choice =
and thicken it to whatever consistency is appropriate for the =
application and make your bond. Doing this "preparatory wetting of the =
surfaces" will yield an epoxy bond that quite simply will never let go.

    =20

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