Lock tite- wood epoxy

Erwinspiano@aol.com Erwinspiano@aol.com
Mon, 12 Jul 2004 10:39:41 EDT


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Dear Contrarian Brother
  I was merely suggesting a  type of epoxy for a  very small job so that I 
don't waste the west sytems stuff for 4 dabs of epoxy.  Also by inserting the 
screws in this repair aformentioned it squishes it into  the wood. If I have a 
failure I'll be the first to tattle on myself. Thes screws  can be tihgtend 
further after complete dryin as well so I'm very pleased with  the repair
  However your point is well taken & when I need  epoxy advice You da man 
Terry
   Dale Erwin

At the risk of sounding like I am of the opinion that there  is only one type 
of epoxy worthy of use on this planet, I offer the following  for your 
consideration.
 
>From my experience, the source of failure with epoxies in  general, when they 
occur, is between the epoxy and the substrate being  bonded - in a repair 
like a rim, it would be the epoxy-to-wood joint that  can be of concern. An epoxy 
bond is a mechanical bond: the epoxy must  penetrate the wood sufficiently so 
that after it hardens it will not work  loose. You've all 
heard/seen/experienced an auto-body repair with "Bondo" that  separates from the metal after some 
time. This is because a proper mechanical  bond was not made between the 
Bondo (yes, I know, Bondo is a  polyurethane-based product - but the analogy 
works) and the metal  substrate. The same can happen with the epoxy-to-wood joint.
 
A thick, putty-like epoxy, simply does not penetrate a  wooden surface well 
on its own. 
 
Now in a low-stress joint like filling a divot in a piece of  wood, the thick 
epoxy might work just fine. But be sure to moosh the epoxy  into the wood a 
bit to be sure it will interlock with the surface fibers of  the wood.
 
In a high-stress joint, an epoxy like West System with its  various fillers 
really shines. The basic principal here is to wet wood  surfaces down with an 
unthickened epoxy - you can watch as the epoxy soaks  into the wood - if it 
soaks in fast, you may want to apply unthickened epoxy  again - with end grain 
you will want many applications of unthickened epoxy  until it doesn't take any 
more. Then you add your filler of choice and thicken  it to whatever 
consistency is appropriate for the application and make your  bond. Doing this 
"preparatory wetting of the surfaces" will yield an epoxy  bond that quite simply will 
never let go.

 (http://www.farrellpiano.com/) 





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