>So then, is your procedure is to temporarily screw the bridge to the board, >lay the board in the piano, put in the plate, clamp it down in a few places >and set the bearing, then remove everything and notch and pin the bridge >clamped to a 1x10? It has been. Or, I can determine the bridge height at C-8 by measurement determined by string height, make the bridge in it's entirety from that and my pattern, and put the thing in. I've also made bridges from just the original bridge height, my pattern, and the crown under load estimates produced by my spreadsheet with no problem. I don't want to do the "traditional" bearing setting method of gouging the bridge cap and planing it down. I want to put a laminated cap of pre-determined thickness on a bridge of pre-determined thickness and put it in the piano a minimum number of times. I'm a long way from being efficient, but I'd rather do a little more planning and a little less physical labor if I possibly can. >If so, how do you support the plate over the board at >the correct height, as well as hold it down around the perimeter so that >you can wedge it down to set bearing? Sitting on one nose bolt and the pinblock, normally. If it's badly warped, I might clamp it down to level with blocks and clamps over the rim. It depends on what I've got to work with. I'm probably going to hang the plate on adjustable perimeter bolts anyway, and hopefully with vertical hitches, so there is some tolerance here. Ron N
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