(no subject)

[Joe And Penny Goss]

Hi Gordon,
 The plans are free, as each radial chow saw is different,
no two would be exactly the same jig. So mass producing them would be a
useless effort.
Contact me off list if you desire further information.
Just a click away on my address below<G>
Joe Goss
imatunr@srvinet.com
www.mothergoosetools.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "gordon stelter" <lclgcnp@yahoo.com>
To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, February 14, 2003 9:00 PM
Subject: Re: (no subject)


> Just found your site and really like the idea of the
> chop-saw jig for reducing old key dimensions for new,
> thicker tops! Do you SELL the jig, or just the plans?
> And how much$$$$$$$$$$$
>      Thump
>
> --- Joe And Penny Goss <imatunr@srvinet.com> wrote:
> > Gordon,
> > I did for a while but found that a belt sander was
> > easier for me to control.
> > No jumping and ruining a top.
> > I now do the final notch with a special file with no
> > cutting surface on the
> > sides. See my site. The tool is used with a 4 foot
> > long strap iron 1" wide,
> > clamped to the keys while in the piano key bed. The
> > sharps are removed.
> > Square notches every time!
> > Joe Goss
> > imatunr@srvinet.com
> > www.mothergoosetools.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "gordon stelter" <lclgcnp@yahoo.com>
> > To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > Sent: Friday, February 14, 2003 8:06 PM
> > Subject: Re: (no subject)
> >
> >
> > > Does anyone use a laminate trimmer router bit for
> > > keytops? If not, why? If so, how, if you pleeze?
> > >      Thump
> > >
> > > --- John Ross <jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca> wrote:
> > > > Hi,
> > > > Use PVC-E glue, no clamping required, easy clean
> > off
> > > > with water.
> > > > I take the keytop surface down to compenasate
> > for
> > > > the different thickness, of the one piece
> > plastic
> > > > keytop I use.
> > > > I use a jig on my Shopsmith to do this.
> > > > I still use a disc/belt sander to get the
> > keytops
> > > > close to size , and finish off with a file.
> > > > I would not use contact cement.
> > > > There is no telling how long it will take you to
> > do
> > > > your first job, I remember one guy telling me it
> > > > took him 12 hours.
> > > > Your time will improve as you get your methods
> > and
> > > > jigs in line.
> > > > Regards,
> > > > John M. Ross
> > > > Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
> > > > jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca
> > > >   ----- Original Message -----
> > > >   From: Mickey Kessler
> > > >   To: pianotech@ptg.org
> > > >   Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 9:09 PM
> > > >   Subject: (no subject)
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >   Hi all,
> > > >
> > > >   I'm considering replacing all the keytops on a
> > PSO
> > > > owned by my cousin.  If this were a really good
> > > > instrument I'd probably just send the keys out
> > to a
> > > > recovering house (actually, I'd turn the whole
> > thing
> > > > over to somebody who's really into rebuilding,
> > which
> > > > I'm not), but it's a piece of junk -- or rather,
> > an
> > > > opportunity for learning -- so I want to do it
> > for
> > > > the experience.
> > > >
> > > >   A few questions:
> > > >
> > > >   1.  Reblitz describes a procedure that's based
> > on
> > > > using contact cement.  This scares me; it
> > doesn't
> > > > allow for much error.  On the other hand, if I
> > use
> > > > more forgiving glue, it'll require clamping,
> > which
> > > > the Reblitz procedure seems to preclude (he says
> > to
> > > > shim a straightedge to the keyslip in order to
> > line
> > > > up all the keyfronts exactly the same).  Can
> > anybody
> > > > recommend a better procedure that will also
> > ensure
> > > > uniformity?  And while we're on the subject,
> > what's
> > > > the best glue to use?
> > > >
> > > >   2.  The supply houses sell a variety of
> > keytops.
> > > > Any preferences regarding one-piece tops and
> > fronts
> > > > as opposed to two-piece?  I'm thinking now that
> > I'll
> > > > use the one-piece.  Am I asking for trouble?
> > Would I
> > > > learn more by using two-piece?  Should I get
> > thick
> > > > or thin or doesn't it matter?  Do the one-piece
> > tops
> > > > require clamping in two directions?
> > > >
> > > >   3.  Do I need to figure on resurfacing all the
> > > > wood?  Can I do that without the expensive
> > Oslund
> > > > machines that Reblitz describes?  How bad must
> > the
> > > > surface be before it should be resurfaced?  I'm
> > > > guessing the thick plastic tops will take up a
> > lot
> > > > of unevenness -- am I wrong?
> > > >
> > > >   4.  Any thoughts about how much time I should
> > > > allot for the job?
> > > >
> > > >   Thanks to everybody out there for sharing all
> > your
> > > > knowledge.  I've learned more from this group
> > than
> > > > from just about any other source.  The
> > generosity of
> > > > this profession is truly admirable.
> > > >
> > > >   Mickey Kessler
> > > >   PTG Assoc.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > __________________________________________________
> > > Do you Yahoo!?
> > > Yahoo! Shopping - Send Flowers for Valentine's Day
> > > http://shopping.yahoo.com
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > pianotech list info:
> > https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > pianotech list info:
> https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Shopping - Send Flowers for Valentine's Day
> http://shopping.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives