Hi Jonathan, What is the lowest out door temperature that occurs? If it causes the wall cavities in homes to drop below the dew point such a unit would flirt with serious home damage. It also does not address the high end of the spectrum for humidity. If you look here I think you will find your basic premise that humidity is fairly even will be quite quite shattered. http://ccc.atmos.colostate.edu/~coagmet/rawdata_docs.php I charge about $300 US for a full upgright install--which saves the client 3 tunings per year. At 10:09 PM 2/12/2003 -0700, you wrote: >Hi Don, I'm in Colorado > >The key to your response was "back covers" and "bottom covers". In this >case, I would have to agree with you. Humidity doesn't stay put, and to >think that it will just hover around a certain area is false. But as >you said, with back covers, and bottom covers, I would suspect much more >stable results. > >As for the systems I was talking about, you can get a skuttle whole >house humidifier for around $500. There are cheaper versions, but this >is the one that self flushes, creates steam (instead of water wall), >etc. > >In this case, the price differential between the two isn't that great. >Whole house systems only work however, if the customer understands what >the unit's doing, and the scientific properties of humidity/temperature, >etc. For instance, the nicest unit won't do much in a house where the >windows and doors are always open. But here, we're typically around 40% >in the summer (with AC running), and so there's no need for the unit. >Again, stability in the house only happens if they keep it buttoned up. >The winter on the other hand is a different story. It's not uncommon >for RH levels do drop below 10% during a cold snap. I do have customers >with whole house units, who are able to keep the humidity at 40% all >winter long. This unit will work in most houses, even fairly large >ones. It puts out (if memory serves me correctly) about 16 gallons a >day. I'm measuring this with a Rotronics hygrometer, which is extremely >accurate, so I'm fairly certain that the figures are reliable. > >In other words, a person who does their part, along with a climate >controlled house, can for about the same dollar amount keep their home >at 40% year round. At least here :) > >Don't get me wrong, I certainly see the usefulness of the DC unit, but >for the climate here, I think there are better alternatives. > >Jonathan Finger RPT > >-----Original Message----- >From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On >Behalf Of Don >Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 10:52 PM >To: Pianotech >Subject: RE: DC > >Hi Jonathen, > >Your post does not provide details about the costs of such a unit. I >suspect that in a forced air home which is what most northern climates >have >such a unit would far exceed the cost of the piano. I also doubt that >humidity could be kept within 5% on a year round basis. My research >indicates that a 5% change in humidity causes a one hertz variation in >pitch at A4--and far more than that at the bass break. It also "smears" >the >unisons. I could live with + or - 4 cents at A4 but can't live with what >happens to the octaves at the break. > >My results with damppchasers with back covers and bottom covers are less >than 2 cents pitch change on any note over a one year period. (Assuming >piano is stablized). This is not an opinion, it is a documented history >on >more than a "few" pianos. > >What part of the country do you live in? > >At 02:57 PM 2/12/2003 -0700, you wrote: >>Don, >> >>I just meant that there are other options such as climate control. I >>know a lot of this depends on the climate, but where I live, I have >seen >>better results with whole house humidification than I have with DC >>systems. And when I say whole house humidification, I don't mean the >>"water wall" method which relies on the furnace. I mean a high >quality, >>steam generating humidification system. It is my opinion that (at >least >>in this climate) these systems produce more of a stable environment >than >>the DC system. And from measuring RH levels under the piano, they >offer >>a much more consistent solution. Again, I haven't had experience with >>this all of the country, so I'm not making a blanket statement. >> >>Also, as already mentioned, the unit is pretty useless if it isn't >>filled. Unfortunately, this is often the case. >> >> >>Jonathan Finger RPT. >> >> >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On >>Behalf Of Don >>Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 2:49 PM >>To: Pianotech >>Subject: RE: DC >> >>Hi Jonathan, >> >>Would you care to elaborate? >> >>At 09:57 AM 2/12/2003 -0700, you wrote: >>>There are also options which will not create a >>>gradient in the way DC’s (at least in my experience) do. >>>Jonathan Finger RPT >> >>Regards, >>Don Rose, B.Mus., A.M.U.S., A.MUS., R.M.T., R.P.T. >> >>mailto:pianotuna@accesscomm.ca >>http://us.geocities.com/drpt1948/ >> >>3004 Grant Rd. >>REGINA, SK >>S4S 5G7 >>306-352-3620 or 1-888-29t-uner >>_______________________________________________ >>pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >> >> >> >>_______________________________________________ >>pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >> >> > >Regards, >Don Rose, B.Mus., A.M.U.S., A.MUS., R.M.T., R.P.T. > >mailto:pianotuna@accesscomm.ca >http://us.geocities.com/drpt1948/ > >3004 Grant Rd. >REGINA, SK >S4S 5G7 >306-352-3620 or 1-888-29t-uner >_______________________________________________ >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > >_______________________________________________ >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > Regards, Don Rose, B.Mus., A.M.U.S., A.MUS., R.M.T., R.P.T. mailto:pianotuna@accesscomm.ca http://us.geocities.com/drpt1948/ 3004 Grant Rd. REGINA, SK S4S 5G7 306-352-3620 or 1-888-29t-uner
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