HELP

[David Love]

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Using 60 grit paper should leave the tails rough enough for good =
checking if the arc is the correct radius and the backcheck is set at =
the correct angle.  The radius should be about 2 1/2" - 2 3/4" and the =
tail length should be 1".    If the radius is too small, the hammer will =
check too high on the tail.  If the radius is too long, the edge of the =
tail will hit the check first and eventually cut a small ledge in the =
leather and you will get bouncing instead of checking.  The back of the =
backcheck should be parallel to the hammer moulding with the hammer at =
rest.  When you put the hammer in check, you should be able to push the =
hammer downward into the backcheck with your finger, but you should feel =
the resistance increase the further you go.  If you can push the hammer =
straight through, the backcheck is too upright, if you encounter =
immediate resistance then the angle is too flat and you will get "hard =
checking" (or not checking), i.e. you will feel it in your fingers at =
the key.  When the angle and radius are correct (and assuming the =
leather is in good condition) you will not need to rough the tails.  It =
just eats up the leather that much quicker.

David Love
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Rogerio Cunha=20
  To: Pianotech Mensagem=20
  Sent: September 24, 2002 1:38 PM
  Subject: HELP


  To the list

  After to use the Spurlock's Grand Hammer Tail Arcing Jig, the tail of =
the hammer becomes very smooth and this makes difficult the backcheck. =
There no difference if you use sandpaper 60 or 120 to do the arc. The =
tail always is smooth.
  What is the best and easy way in order to scrape the tail?
  Thanks to all

  Rogerio Cunha
  IC Member of The Piano Technicians Guild
  Rio de Janeiro - Brasil
  http://planeta.terra.com.br/arte/dacapo/
  http://www.perfectpitch.hpg.ig.com.br

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