key bushings

[jolly roger]

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Hi Isaac,
                 We change BR pins quite often, no point in in rebushing=20
keys, (Labour intensive) and having worn, corroded, dirty, or damaged=20
pins.  If the pin is worn, just give the top of the pin a light tap with a=
=20
hammer and knock it in a tad. The cup be gone. <G>  Simple.

As for RPM, it's only a quick burst with the switch, the drill never gets=20
up to speed.
The drill is battery operated and light duty, so not an over abundance of=20
torque.
We just follow the angle of using the centre of the mortice as a guide.  I=
=20
know it's not exact.
  Key and drill are hand held so the drill just finds it way naturally, if=
=20
you get my meaning.  The pin is pushed into the hole before the switch is=20
pulled. You soon get the feel for it.   Not so different that learning the=
=20
feel for the key easing tool.
Hey, nothing is completely fool proof.
I am just as picky as you with fitting.  The swelling of the wood, is the=20
reason why I prefer waiting a few days before fitting where=20
practical.  Experience has shown me it achieves better results.
Your comment on using a caul in a soldering iron.  Pianotech now has=20
precision, parallel cauls, (I love there) if you use a thermostat on the=20
iron so the caul is not so hot, it will give a precise job.  It does a nice=
=20
job of laying the nap down, and controlling the friction.
Regards Roger

At 10:40 AM 9/7/02 +0200, you wrote:
>Hi Roger, I will try it.
>
>My experience  is that because of wear,  the base of the balance pin is=20
>more or less large depending the place in the keyboard (measured with a=20
>micrometer), that is why I change them more often than not, and you know=20
>what is the result.
>If we retain the original pins, there are places where we need less=20
>fitting than others (I mean after having changed the bushings, and steamed=
=20
>the wood) . The job is time consuming but it can be done in less than 15=
 min.
>
>For new instruments your method seems a time saver.
>Do you have a fixture for holding the drill ? at what speed do you turn=20
>approx (in RPM, not in MPH !)
>Do you hold it straight or do you follow the hole angle (slightly slanted=
=20
>to the back on most keyboards) ?
>
>Thanks
>
>Isaac
>
>
>
>
>  -----Message d'origine-----
>De : owner-pianotech@ptg.org [mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]De la part de=
=20
>Baldwin Yamaha Piano Centre
>Envoy=E9 : samedi 7 septembre 2002 00:22
>=C0 : pianotech@ptg.org
>Objet : RE: key bushings
>>I am sorry (not really but you see...) , I will try it but I don't buy it=
=20
>>at first :>) as the pinning is showing more or less wear depending of the=
=20
>>place in the keyboard, sizing the hole to a standard size with an=20
>>electric drill may not allow the best fit (anyway not on original pins) .
>Hi Isaac,
>                  Just make sure the pin is straight and polished.  We=20
> sell lots of new Yamaha's and in any month it saves us hours of key=
 fitting.
>   When I say a quick burst of the switch, it's not much more than half a=
=20
> dozen revolutions, just enough to burnish the hole.
>   After steaming out old bushings, we re bush and fit in the same manner,=
=20
> we have encountered no problems at all.  A set can be done in 5 mins or=
 so.
>   Try it and let me know what you think.
>regards Roger


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