separated pin block

[jolly roger]

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Mike,
          I have not had that problem to that extent.  Tap the pins with a 
hammer and punch, it should solve the problem.
Regards Roger

At 07:50 PM 9/6/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi Roger,
>
>I like your idea about using the proper length lag bolt.  But I'm not 
>convinced that letting down the tension is a good idea.  I've only done 
>this repair once - I dropped the tension about 1/4 turn on the pins (piano 
>was already way flat).  when I went to raise pitch, many pins would only 
>turn a small amount before they bound up tight.  It felt like they were 
>bottoming out in their holes , like maybe the epoxy wicked in there and 
>filled the holes behind the pins.  Do you ever have a problem with the 
>epoxy wicking in around the tuning pins and making them extremely hard to 
>turn?
>
>Mike Spalding RPT
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Baldwin Yamaha Piano Centre <baldwin@mta-01.sk.sympatico.ca>
>To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
>Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 5:00 PM
>Subject: Re: separated pin block
>
>
> > Hi Leslie,
> >                   I have fixed dozens of these type of problems.  More
> > often than not the lag bolts will only go in to the pin block assembly, 
> and
> > many of the bolts are actually pushing the back assembly away from the pin
> > block.
> > Drop the tension off the strings.
> > Get some lag bolts that will about the length of the top thickness.  Drill
> > a clearance hole through the block material, and the correct sized pilot
> > hole through the back assembly.
> > When gluing and screwing two pieces of wood together, it is wise to have a
> > clearance hole through the first piece, and the correct sized pilot 
> hole in
> > the second. This will prevent the screw thread from pushing one piece of
> > lumber away from the other, which is what has happened so often before.
> > With the aid of about 6 good C clamps, dry fit the joint back
> > together.   Drill holes. Insert long lag bolts.  remove clamps to check to
> > see if the bolts hold.
> > Remove bolts. the split will open up.
> > Use west system epoxy, ( or equivalent) ( water thin type) work lots into
> > crack.  Tighten clamps and bolts, making sure you have squeeze out.  Clean
> > excess epoxy with acetone soaked rag.
> > This will give you an invisible repair.No protruding nuts at the rear of
> > the piano to scar the customers wall.  The long lag bolts that Yamaha
> > grands have in their packing cases are perfect for most jobs.
> > Wait at least 24hrs before putting the tension back on.
> > I think I would get rid of that heater box, and install a proper Damp
> > Chaser with a control system.
> > Regards Roger
> >
> > At 12:55 PM 9/6/02 -0500, you wrote:
> > >I have a customer with an Everett console, the pin block on which is
> > >separating from the back posts and frame.  Not much more than 3/16 of an
> > >inch at the bass end, none at the treble end. Does one simply remove the
> > >top row of plate screws, drill all the way through, and put stove bolts
> > >through, or does one also use part of the screws lower down?
> > >
> > >What diameter of bolts?
> > >
> > >Does one have to lower tension on strings before pulling them up?
> > >
> > >Does one put glue down in the crack?
> > >
> > >The piano seems awfully dry. A heater bar with a small brown box was
> > >installed, but I have a hunch the little brown box didn't turn the bar
> > >off, and it's been drying away for some years.
> > >thanks
> > >les bartlett
> > >
> > >________________________________________________________________
> > >GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
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> >
> > Roger
> >
> >
> >


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