Hi Terry,
Thank's for digging up the imfo for us all. I don't think
there is a hill of beans difference, for what we are using it for.
Regards Roger
At 07:10 AM 11/6/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Always looking for a better way/material.
>
>I checked the West System and Epotec web sites for technical info. Found
>some. Unfortunately, the two products report mostly different parameters
>of their characteristics. Hardness was the one that appears to be measured
>in the same manner (at least the units are stated to be the same): Shore D
>Hardness for Epotec 301 is 81. Shore D Hardness for West System was 80
>after one day and 83 after two weeks. The time after cure for the Epotec
>was not reported. From these values, I would suggest that the hardness of
>the two products is similar.
>
>Viscosity: Epotec 301 reports "Vicosity @ 23C is @100rpm 100-200 cPs".
>West System reports "Mix Viscosity @ 72F (cPs) is 725-975". I suspect the
>rpm the product is stirred at makes some difference. It was not stated
>exactly how the West System was measured. These numbers appear to suggest
>that the West System resin is more viscous than the Epotec, but I'm not
>sure about that.
>
>Epotec also makes a product #377. Compared to the #301, it is only
>slightly more viscous (150-300 cPs), has a Shore D Hardness of 92 (#301 is
>81) and has a Lap Shear Strength of 2700 psi (#301 is 1700 psi).
>
>Bottom line? Not clear whether West System or Epotec products are better
>suited to piano work. It appears that the Epotec #337 may offer increased
>strength/hardness over their #301. Anyone ever play around with both or
>all three of these products?
>
>Terry Farrell
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "gordon stelter" <lclgcnp@yahoo.com>
>To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
>Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 10:10 AM
>Subject: Re: Bridge Tops & Epoxy
>
>
> > The Epotek 301 is nearly water-thin to begin with, and
> > much harder when cured than West's ( which is great
> > for block fitting or soundboard cracks when used with
> > the colloidal silica and sawdust/coloring agents ). I
> > dropped a drop on a piece of 3/4" thick glass once.
> > When scraped off, it took out a crater!!!!!!
> > Wafting over it with WARM (not hot!) air is to
> > make it even less viscous, so that it really
> > penetrates the bridge, and does not leave it looking
> > "candied". Yes, the bridge WILL look finished, perhaps
> > a bit more than if one used straight shellac: but
> > that's OK with me, when I consider that it is now
> > impervious to moisture, and is impregnated with a
> > substance which, due to its denseness will transmit
> > vibrations beter than the wood itself. I like my work
> > to be neat, but maximum tonal production and
> > durability supercede cosmetic tradition, in my book.
> > And if its still too shiny, I suppose one could
> > go at it with a gray Sctch-brite pad and brass detail
> > brushes for a "satin finish".
> > Gordon
> >
> > --- Farrell <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
> > > Heat activated? What exactly are you describing
> > > here.
> > >
> > > Most any epoxy will cure more quickly when heated
> > > and most any epoxy will decrease in viscosity when
> > > heated. Are you describing something beyond that?
> > >
> > > I use West System epoxy. I don't know exactly how
> > > the two viscosities compare. West System is about
> > > the same viscosity as most pancake syrups. I have
> > > used it on bridge pins with great success.
> > >
> > > Terry Farrell
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Alan R. Barnard" <mathstar@salemnet.com>
> > > To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > > Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002 10:46 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Bridge Tops & Epoxy
> > >
> > >
> > > > Hmmm... very good. Gordon (or LIST), do you have a
> > > new source for Epotek
> > > > 301? McCall's is out of business now, and my
> > > stock, though refrigerated, is
> > > > pretty old. Are there other real-thin, heat
> > > activated epoxies out there?
> > > >
> > > > Alan Barnard
> > > > Salem, MO
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "gordon stelter" <lclgcnp@yahoo.com>
> > > > To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > > > Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002 6:54 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: Bridge Tops & Epoxy
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Hi Terry,
> > > > > I got fabulous results on my last bridge by
> > > > > 1)Removing old graphite from bridge with little
> > > brass
> > > > > brush and lacquer thinner. 2) Pulling, then
> > > gluing in
> > > > > the pins with Epotek 301 and spreading the
> > > squeeze-out
> > > > > across the bridge top with a brush while wafting
> > > from
> > > > > afar with a heat gun to thin it ( all done in a
> > > very
> > > > > warm room, too, with very low humidity ).
> > > > > When thoroughly dry and after soundboard
> > > > > finishing, etc., flatten out and take the
> > > "nose-shine"
> > > > > off the bridge top epoxy by scraping with the
> > > edge of
> > > > > a single edge razor. This is very easy and
> > > accurate.
> > > > > When it is nice and flat and dull looking
> > > and
> > > > > uniform, take a pencil and rub it. The dulled
> > > epoxy
> > > > > LOVES graphite, and will soon be nice and shiny
> > > and
> > > > > silvery-black and neat! Looked first-class! A
> > > pencil
> > > > > is a lot easier to control than a brush with
> > > black
> > > > > stuff on it.
> > > > > Thump
> > > > >
> > > > > --- Farrell <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
> > > > > > Task: New bridge tops or refurbished (new
> > > pins,
> > > > > > renotch). Our preference is to set the pins in
> > > epoxy
> > > > > > in either case. Some epoxy will ooze out the
> > > top of
> > > > > > the bridge pin hole. You need to clean that
> > > up. That
> > > > > > will mess up the nicely dagged top. Is
> > > painting the
> > > > > > dag on the bridge top AFTER installing bridge
> > > pins
> > > > > > the only way to do this? I'm such a sloppy
> > > artist
> > > > > > :-( What to do?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Terry Farrell
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > _______________________________________________
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> > > > >
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