Bridge Tops & Epoxy

[Alan R. Barnard]

Hmmm... very good. Gordon (or LIST), do you have a new source for Epotek
301? McCall's is out of business now, and my stock, though refrigerated, is
pretty old. Are there other real-thin, heat activated epoxies out there?

Alan Barnard
Salem, MO


----- Original Message -----
From: "gordon stelter" <lclgcnp@yahoo.com>
To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002 6:54 PM
Subject: Re: Bridge Tops & Epoxy


> Hi Terry,
>      I got fabulous results on my last bridge by
> 1)Removing old graphite from bridge with little brass
> brush and lacquer thinner. 2) Pulling, then gluing in
> the pins with Epotek 301 and spreading the squeeze-out
> across the bridge top with a brush while wafting from
> afar with a heat gun to thin it ( all done in a very
> warm room, too, with very low humidity ).
>      When thoroughly dry and after soundboard
> finishing, etc., flatten out and take the "nose-shine"
> off the bridge top epoxy by scraping with the edge of
> a single edge razor. This is very easy and accurate.
>     When it is nice and flat and dull looking and
> uniform, take a pencil and rub it. The dulled epoxy
> LOVES graphite, and will soon be nice and shiny and
> silvery-black and neat! Looked first-class! A pencil
> is a lot easier to control than a brush with black
> stuff on it.
>      Thump
>
> --- Farrell <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
> > Task: New bridge tops or refurbished (new pins,
> > renotch). Our preference is to set the pins in epoxy
> > in either case. Some epoxy will ooze out the top of
> > the bridge pin hole. You need to clean that up. That
> > will mess up the nicely dagged top. Is painting the
> > dag on the bridge top AFTER installing bridge pins
> > the only way to do this? I'm such a sloppy artist
> > :-(    What to do?
> >
> > Terry Farrell
> >
> >
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