Bridge Tops & Epoxy

[gordon stelter]

Hi Terry,
     I got fabulous results on my last bridge by 
1)Removing old graphite from bridge with little brass
brush and lacquer thinner. 2) Pulling, then gluing in
the pins with Epotek 301 and spreading the squeeze-out
across the bridge top with a brush while wafting from
afar with a heat gun to thin it ( all done in a very
warm room, too, with very low humidity ).
     When thoroughly dry and after soundboard
finishing, etc., flatten out and take the "nose-shine"
off the bridge top epoxy by scraping with the edge of
a single edge razor. This is very easy and accurate. 
    When it is nice and flat and dull looking and
uniform, take a pencil and rub it. The dulled epoxy
LOVES graphite, and will soon be nice and shiny and
silvery-black and neat! Looked first-class! A pencil
is a lot easier to control than a brush with black
stuff on it.
     Thump

--- Farrell <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
> Task: New bridge tops or refurbished (new pins,
> renotch). Our preference is to set the pins in epoxy
> in either case. Some epoxy will ooze out the top of
> the bridge pin hole. You need to clean that up. That
> will mess up the nicely dagged top. Is painting the
> dag on the bridge top AFTER installing bridge pins
> the only way to do this? I'm such a sloppy artist 
> :-(    What to do?
> 
> Terry Farrell
>   
> 
> _______________________________________________
> pianotech list info:
https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives


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