Terry writes: >Unfortunately, this piano appears to have new Yamaha hammers on it. But >they are not tapered, or arced. Friction in the hammer-shank flanges is >all over the place. Is it reasonable to try the water/alchohol thing to >shrink-size the bushings before repinning the whole shebang I gonna take a wild guess here that the hammers are much heavier than the original design called for and the pinning is why the heavy DW's are all over the place. You want an even response, and you will want it to gradually increase from perhaps 52 in the low bass to 44 grams at the top. How this curve of decreasing resistance is shaped will depend on the key leading,(unless you want to go all out and change SW as well as FW. ) Shrink sizing flange bushings has NEVER , in my experience, produced an even friction throughout the 88 centers. Depending on what sort of job quality is expected (and charged for), I would recommed that you remove all the shanks from the action, pin them all to spec, and then bring down the SW until the thing feels right. If you have a key, say C40, that requirs 60 gr. DW, then see if you can bring the SW down 2 grams, or so. You can usually do this with a belt sander on the sides of the hammer, or using one of the jigs that allows you to taper with shank in place. This vintage Yamaha may have a movable action(whippen) rail, so pay particular attention to spread. Regards, Ed Foote RPT
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