At 08:35 PM 5/13/02 -0500, you wrote: >Friends, > >I hope Roger Jolly doesn't mind me letting the cat out of the bag. He >has such a jig which tapers hammers on shank. I constructed the >mirror-image pair (one for shanks left and one for shanks right) from >his precise engineer's drawings and use them regularly for tapering >hammers, off or on shank. > >Best regards, > >Stan Kroeker >Registered Piano Technician Meow!!!!!!!!! Hi Stan, If you can scan the drawings please feel free to post them to the list. And Derek if you still have the photos please post them. The set screws, set very accurate angles so if you take 2 degrees off one side you then take 4 degrees off the other. I use scrap hammers to double check the angles before making the first cut. Ops! Darn! how can I put that wood back. <G> I do have copies of drawings that I use for my classes, so if Stan cannot post them, I will send them to a volenteer that can. The jig uses a table saw, so there is no discoloration of felt, and precise control of taper can be made from the strike point back The jig has a cut out to allow for the angled shank. A left and a right jig is need if hammers are done with shanks on. Cutting from tail to strike point removes a little more felt, and a lot more mass, this an important consideration with light mahogany moldings, since only a small amount of mass reduction is attained from the molding. Using a good quality, sharp blade is important for best results. Don't go too fast with the rate of feed, and there will be no scorch marks on felt or wood. Just a nice clean cut. regards Roger Roger Jolly Balwin Yamaha Piano Centres. Saskatoon/Regina. Canada.
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