refinishing plate

[Jon Page]

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I prefer to mix the bronze powder in a separate container with the lacquer 
then pour it through a filter cone.
Then pour thinner through the cone.  Use a retarder to slow the drying 
process so the finish will flow out well
and not be grainy or orange peel.  The clear topcoat should have a lot of 
thinner and retarder to really get a smooth finish.
It takes longer to dry but worth the wait.  Don't rub out.

For lettering, I use a black waterbased acrylic (PianoLac). Black lacquer 
is not forgiving in the event of a mistake.

Jon Page


At 05:57 AM 3/20/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi Hazen -
>
>Truthfully, I have never even measured how much bronze powder I mix into 
>the lacquer.  Not very scientific, I know, but I just stir it into the gun 
>cup till it looks right.  Start with a couple tablespoons in your quart 
>cup of lacquer, see how gold it looks stirred up, and test spray on a 
>white piece of paper.  I plan on two coats of gold anyway, so if there is 
>a slight transluscence to the color, that is fine.  It is worth swirling 
>your gun around quite often during application to keep the bronze from 
>falling out of suspension.
>
>I use water-based lacquers for all wood finishing, but still use the 
>nitrocellulose lacquer for spraying plates.  I just go to my local Sherwin 
>Williams store and use their "medium rubbed water-white lacquer" ( or 
>something like that).  For plates, I prefer satin over gloss, because it 
>is warmer and more forgiving to the eye when there are imperfections in 
>the plate surface.  Although I rub out all finishes I apply to wood, and I 
>like the woolwax you referred to, I would not recommend trying to rub down 
>a gloss finish to satin applied to a piano plate.  There are WAY too many 
>small crevices -- around lettering, hitch pins, agraffes, etc. -- that 
>would be nearly impossible to rub out uniformly.  Unless you WANT a gloss 
>finish, I would use satin, at least for the clear top coats, if you decide 
>to go that route.  Ask your supplier if he has some flatting agent for his 
>gloss lacquer (if he doesn't sell satin sheen already) or get his 
>assistance acquiring some.  You can add this to your gloss lacquer to get 
>any degree of flatting of the sheen you like.  DO follow the directions 
>very carefully, and mix very thoroughly.
>
>Mark Potter
><mailto:bases-loaded@juno.com>bases-loaded@juno.com
>
>On Tue, 19 Mar 2002 23:28:10 EST 
><mailto:HazenBannister@cs.com>HazenBannister@cs.com writes:
>>Tommy,Mark,List,
>>I appreciate your replys,and yes I have a dedicated spray room,and 
>>equipment,in my shop.
>>What is the ratio,mix for the bronze powder.Also,where do you get your 
>>paint,lacquer and other refinishing materials?I get mine from a company 
>>called Carolina Refinishing,and would love to compare quality&prices from 
>>someone else.Also,I have been getting a gloss lacquer(it's what he 
>>has),and wool waxing to get a satin finish.Do you buy a satin laquer,or 
>>do the same?
>>Thanks again,
>>Hazen Bannister
>>

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